I'm trying to check and troubleshoot a 'no restart when the engine is warm' problem and in the FAQ's there is an instruction to "use a volt meter to check the voltage to ground at the injection ballast resistors."
I'd love it if someone could translate this into dumbhead english for me and perhaps describe locations.
Thanks in advance, I think I've almost got this fixed (knock on wood, ouch, my head)
-Brent
guysaab@aol.com

The resistors are located on the front of the left inner fender well, near the headlight. After years of exposure to the elements, the wires become corroded and brittle, and can break off. This deprives an injector of power.

It also occurs when some moron at Jiffy Boob or Sears Automotive or Midas is rough while replacing the headlight.

I've fixed a few by resoldering the wires back onto the resistors.

If you examine your resistors and see a broken wire, I'll explain in some detail how to resolder it.

You measure the voltage by connecting the negative voltmeter lead to a convenient chassis ground and probing the resistor wires with the positive lead. Be sure you have the voltmeter set to DC and to a sufficiently high voltage range (15 volts or greater).

I've never measured the resistors and have no idea what reading to expect.

"...troubleshoot a 'no restart when the engine is warm' problem..."

Does it have spark when warm no-restarting?
--
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)

Guy Saab,
In addition to foster, what you are looking for is a bundle of 4 white porcelain cylinderical insulators, which are covered by a heavy metal cage. (Just in case you don't know what you are looking for).

Any chance it's flooded? Are the plugs dry or wet?

Fuel pump relay OK?

Radio suppression relay OK (if you have one)?
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Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)

I just had this problem! That little relay mounted on the drivers side strut tower is the "radio suppression relay". Gently push up on each lead to ensure they are properly seated on their respective pins. The rubber substance used to hold the contacts in the harness-side connector crumbles with age allowing the wires to back off the pins with normal engine vibration and breaking contact.
I bedded the contacts in urethane sealant placed within the connector making certain that all surfaces were clean and that no sealant went inside on the female connectors - urethane and silicone are pretty good insulators. However silicone is less oil and heat resistant than urethane.
Hey, it worked for me. No guarantees it'll work for anyone else.
--
There are no stupid questions only those that are not asked.

Resolder the sucker.
--
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)