After pulling out that VW bus in the ditch a week or so ago and with my continued concerns about some rare but disconcerting jerkiness in rear doing sharp corners and reverseing in turns I had my fav. mechanic check things out.

He looked at the brakes, the driveline, the clutch etc and on the phone said things looked okay... but when I got there he said, "I got some bad news. You need a new clutch."

I have expected eventually to have a new clutch someday as it has 173K miles on it and some jerkiness in first gear... But after doing the recommended tests in the Haynes manual, my clutch passed. I did tell my mechanic about burning the clutch pulling out the VW bus.. but then my car's worked okay, same as ever since then. I don't mind spending some money on the car BUT my friends at work reasonably think on a old car I should wait until the clutch really is giving me problems, and that usually a clutch will give quite a bit of warning before complete failure. But then again I had brought my car in because I was going on a road trip several hundred miles away from home (thus my mechanic's concern perhaps...)

My mechanic did reasonably say what the problem was with the original concerns of mine... that the rear bushings are starting to fail and that when I put a bit of twist on the differential, as in a sharp turn some play is causing the rough rides. I booked a date for my clutch repair day after tomorrow.. but after thinking a bit I called and left a message that I'd rather have the bushings replaced and maybe the rusty wheels in the rear replaced first and let the clutch go for a few weeks.

I think he's a good mechanic even though after he checked my brakes and parking brake for damage I was worried about... I Lost my rear wheel's perfectly good wheelcover ... and that "pissed me off" to no end as my car looks like s>>t as a result .. and it's a pain to find another one (without stealing one). He says he was careful putting it back on.. but it's lost so I can only assume ... well it's maybe not worth getting worried about... but a 5 or 6 hundred clutch job (and he offered to replace rear engine seal which probably may account for minor oil loss ...) but spending that kind of money on a now rather despairing looking car.. It's white and the rear rusty wheel really makes it look not as good. So I said maybe find me some new wheels, a new wheel cover and fix those bushings first!!!

How do the experts here ascertain that a clutch needs to be fixed. And are there any reasonably easy sources for stock wheels and wheel covers as the junk yards around here are very picked over... esp. for a popular longliving car like the 245!!!!

Does the clutch slip at all? If it is slipping severely, what will happen is that the engine will rev normally but little power will actually be transmitted to the rear wheels.

How far do you have to push/release the pedal to engage/disengage the clutch?

The "jerkiness" that you describe could be due to the rear main seal leaking and coating the surface of the clutc disc with oil. This is not "terminal," but you will definitely want the rear main replaced when the clutch is done. Speaking of which...check your flame trap and verify that it isn't clogged.

The suspension play that you describe ("disconcerting j%rkiness in rear doing
sharp corners and reverseing in turns") is more than likely your (rear) bushings. You would be surprised at what a difference new bushings make in ride quality and handling.

I don't think that the incident with the VeeDub was a death sentence for your clutch, and if it's "worked okay, same as ever since [bus-pulling]" you shouldn't be too concerned. OTOH, if this is a reputable mechanic and you've used him before, he has no reason to be dishonest with you, and he has the benefit of seeing (and driving) your vehicle -- something that can't be done over the internet.

Think your best bet would be to take it to another shop (or two) and ask for their "professional opinions."

-=Bob=-

I don't disagree with my mechanic that I "eventually" will need a new clutch. But his diagnosis of bad bushings being the cause of my initial complaint was dead-on... and he fixed that today for 400 bucks including 225 of new parts including rod across differential rear...(also including time spent checking clutch and drivetrain...) It looked like a hairy job for a do-it-yourselfer and he said he was impressed with the lack of rust in undercarrage despite living in one of the rustier parts of the nation. He said it was my decision and that if I keep a light touch on the clutch I could keep it going indefinitly... but it'll go if I don't think about it... and perhaps when I most need it!!

I am budgeting for it *about 5 or 6 hundred as he'll fix rear seal of engine too...)

I now am enjoying a much more 'new car' ride in rear... and with my new coils (previously) and bushings, my cars' got quite a pert rear end ... (despite the bit of hidden rust on tailgate....) the new bushings even added another half an inch in height (where the coils added an inch or so...) He showed me one bushing completely hollowed out. He remarked that even without bushings the Volvo would still be safe as they have very stout hardened bolts keeping the rear together.

He is sorry about the hubcap but insists he put it on well... and I have to agree maybe the bad bushings in rear were probably the culprit.. or maybe I really got ripped off while at the coffee shop... (another guy's got the same model as mine and he's missing one.... I'll check and see it he's suddenly covered on all wheels!!) Now where to find a legal hubcap... I painted my bare wheel white to at least not stick out so much in traffic.