posted by
someone claiming to be Jim Hampton
on
Tue Jul 30 17:06 CST 2002 [ RELATED]
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I'm replacing the clutch on the kid's '64 122. No big deal, I've done it a few times before, but I notice the rear oil seal is leaking enough that I have a stream in the driveway. I've decided to remove the oilpan to make certain there's a seal between the oil seal flange and the pan gasket. I remember having removed the pan without removing the engine, but don't remember the details. How do I best get enough space between the cross member and the block so I can get the pan out? I'm kinda tired of messing around with this car. I want to get to a 164 I'm reclaiming so I can have the garage free to work on my own (67) 122 this winter (after I get my wife's '79 244 ready to pass emissions and safety tests in August).
Thanks in advance for the advice.
Jim Hampton
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I dropped the pan in my 66 wagon in 99. I was doing a lot of front end
work at the time so it was worthwhile. I did drop the whole front
crossmember, supporting the engine with an engine hoist. It worked fine
and was not as bad as I was afraid it would be. It turned out that the
seal ring on the oil line going into the block from the pump had blown out,
causing very low oil pressure. I attribute this to a large pump with a
big spring with washers behind it = too much oil pressure on startup
when I built the engine up. Replaced the seal and put in standard pump
with big spring and no washers. Oil pressure is normal; no apparent
damage in 3 years driving with low pressure.
Ron is right, though. Unless you REALLY need to get into the crankcase,
leave the pan on. BTW if you need a modified seal housing for neoprene
seal, e-mail me offline gdowns@cableone.net
--
George Downs, The "original" Walrus3, Bartlesville, Oklahoma
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posted by
someone claiming to be Ron Kwas
on
Wed Jul 31 02:16 CST 2002 [ RELATED]
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Jim;
Removal of the oil pan is not necessary, and I dont recommend it, if you are redoing a rear oil seal and/or the gasket on its housing...I think your making yourself an awfull lot of unnecessary work by pulling the entire oil pan. The last time I did a rear seal replacement/upgrade to neoprene, I carefully pulled the seal housing, doing as little damage to the oil pan seal as possible, cleaned everything up and sealed the new housing and gasket on with plenty of gasket sealer (making sure the oil pan gasket had enough gasket sealer to seal any damage caused during dissassembly). Do not plug oil drain hole in housing and gasket. Also, you do need to make sure the new seal is centered well on the crankshaft.
Cheers
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"Also, you do need to make sure the new seal is centered well on the crankshaft."
Very important, and fairly hard to do too - sitting under the car looking up at it. You pretty much need to stick your head in where the tranny was and look at it straight on while you (almost always) push it down against the pan.
And if it has the original felt seals, do yourself a huge favor and get a modified housing that uses neoprene seals (IPDUSA.COM is one source).
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I've seen several of these references to a modified housing to fit a neoprene seal. When I replaced one on the B20 that is currently in my Amazon, the local aftermarket Volvo specialist was able to supply a seal that went straight into the original housing - no mods. I can't believe that Australia (where I am) has a bigger range of seals than the US, so what's the story with these modified housings?
By the way, my seal doesn't appear to leak, although the engine hasn't done many miles on it yet.
JohnH
Sydney Australia
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was it the felt seal or an upgrade?
--
Disclaimer: be careful, work safely!!! If you have any doubts as to the safety of the work you are doing, consult a proffessional before you hurt yourself or others!!! I'm not a licensed mechanic, I have just been fixing stuff my whole life, patrick of
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It was an Australian delivered B20B with felt seals front and rear. I replaced both with neoprene seals, no machining needed for either.
JohnH
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A bit more info: I just rang the place I bought them from. Apparently the rear seal for my 8-bolt crank is the same as a 240 seal. No problem with supply.
The front ones that fit in the unmodified standard housing were made by a European manufacturer, almost certainly as a special order, and are now very scarce.
He has just sourced a few from another dealer, and I think I'll go and pick them up for myself for spares. At AUD29.50 each (less than US$15 each), I don't think I'll regret it. I certainly couldn't get the housing machined for that price.
JohnH
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Thanks for the info. I guess I'll have to buy and install a 8 bolt B20 so that I can save $ on machinning the rear seal housing. Or maybe not.
--
Disclaimer: be careful, work safely!!! If you have any doubts as to the safety of the work you are doing, consult a proffessional before you hurt yourself or others!!! I'm not a licensed mechanic, I have just been fixing stuff my whole life, patrick of
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posted by
someone claiming to be Ron Kwas
on
Thu Aug 1 02:09 CST 2002 [ RELATED]
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Patrick;
I understand you posted that tongue in cheek, but isn't the crank OD at the sealing surface the same for both 6 and 8 bolt cranks?
John;
Here in "the colonies" the typical standard double lip, spring loaded neoprene seals for those crank dimensions require machining...but if you have upgrade seals which drop into unmodified housings, that's great...please share manufacturer, PNs, sources, and pix if possible...they (hopefully) must be available around here...just maybe nobody ever ran across them, or bothered investigating anything else once ipd had "locked in" and started selling the modified housings!
Cheers
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Ron,
I'll drop out to the parts bloke some time next week to pick up a couple. If there is any useful info on them, I'll post it plus a pic.
JohnH
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I think the main appeal of the IPD style was that it used standard 240 series (B21) seals from then on - so future replacements are not hard to find.
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