Hi, I replaced the head on my car a day or two ago, and have had some truoble getting the old girl to run. I am guessing it's somehwere in the timing area, but I'm not really sure.
Things I have:
-Spark
-Fuel
-Compression in number one cylinder when the notches line up

All the timing notches are lined according to the Haynes manual. When I turn the key to start it, the car actually fires, and runs as long as the starter is engaged. Soon as the key is released(back to normal ON position), the engine dies. After this, the exhaust manifold is warm, but not hot. What could be causing this? Any ideas would be appreciated, as I need this car for work during the week.

Aaron

Thanks for the responses. I let it sit for a few days, and decided to check the fuse block. A wire that runs from fuse 5 to the fuel relay had fallen off. Put it back on, and wham, she starts. Thanks,

Aaron

This may vary depending on what year you have. The ballast resistor is in the circuit powering the coil when the engine is running. It is by-passed during starting. So, if you hit the starter, and therefore the by-pass, the coil is powered direct. Back to Position II (run) and it dies, then the coil power is not getting through the by-pass circuit.

The starter has two small wires connected in addition to the fat ones. One is the key control (Y), the other is the lead to the ballast resistor (BN). Check that they are connected OK.

The ballast resistor is mounted near and below the wiper motor. You might put on a jumper wire and see what happens. Maybe the resistor itself is Kaput.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)

Ballast resistor as Walrus stated.

There is a wire hooked to your starter solenoid that provides 12 volts
direct to the coil to bypass the ballast resistor while cranking.
I believe the wire is brown and has a 3/16" connector, smaller than
most. Unhook this wire and see if it still fires. If it doesn't,
the problem lies around the ignition ballast resistor.

If it does, it may be a timing issue, like firing 360 crankshaft degrees
off (between exhaust and intake rather than on compression).
To test this, move your spark plug wires around the distributor 2 positions
in either direction. (straight across from where they are now)
--
George Downs, The "original" Walrus3, Bartlesville, Oklahoma

timing. Or something silly like incorrect wires order.

Bring it to TDC and make sure the cam notch points up and you should feel the piston on 1 with a pencil.