Volvo RWD 200 Forum

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My brick starts, stalls, starts,stalls, when cold then after warmed up starts up fine, fuel check valve? 200 1987

My 87' 240 is starting up and stalling about 3 times when cold.Then it runs rough as hell for the first three minutes then it smooths out and runs fine. And once it is warmed up it starts normal,un less it sits for 4-5 hours, then it runs rough again until warmed up, then runs fine again. It is getting worse and really seems to fall on it's face for the first half mile or so and even backfires a little thru the airbox until it warms up, or the fuel pressure gets up to normal. I tried to crank the idle up a tad, but my idle screw is backed almost all the way out but it doesn't seem to make it idle any faster when I turn it out. Could it be the fuel check valve, or maybe a temp sensor? MC posted a message a month ago, and he had replaced a lot of expensive parts and he still had the problem, he would probably shoot himself if it turns out to be a $15.00 check valve. How about the air mass meter? But if it was that, wouldn't it run like crap all the time? One more thing, I do not have to touch the gas pedal when starting it up just like it should be.

Thanks in advance,GOOBER








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My brick starts, stalls, starts,stalls, when cold then after warmed up starts up fine, fuel check valve? 200 1987

Sounds like a fuel pressure regulator to me.








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My brick starts, stalls, starts,stalls, when cold then after warmed up starts up fine, fuel check valve? 200 1987

could be the idle air control motor. The cylindrical thing on top of the intake. Remove it and flush thouroughly with carb clener.

MAtt

--
'82 240 - 144k; '87 760T 133k








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My brick starts, stalls, starts,stalls, when cold then after warmed up starts up fine, fuel check valve? 200 1987

Probably not a fuel pump check valve problem. Sounds more like a lean mixture when cold condition. Could possibly be the ECU temp sensor but i would start troubleshooting by checking for vacuum leaks. Check both ends of 4 or so vacuum lines that plug into the intake manifold, including those that run to the canister. Also check the corrugated plastic air hose that runs from the filter box to the throttle body, it is notorious for rubbing on the strut tower and getting holes worn in it. Many times you can't see the holes unless you remove it completely, which isn't a very difficult task.

--
Matt L. -- Cary, NC -- '91 740 wagon







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