I am a bit confused...I need a new oil pan put in, as the drain plug hole has been stripped.I got a new(used) pan from my parts dude for $10, and its drain plug threads are still good.Now, my Haynes manual says to simply disconnect the bellhousing brace, undo the oil pan bolts, then remove the oil pan. Simple, right? Well, not according to Mr. Robert Bentley, who says all manner of things must be disconnectd and unbolted before attempting this project. So, who's right? I mean, I don't need to replace the pump or anything like that, just the pan and its gasket.I'd rather not re-thread the hole simply because I don't want to risk getting any little pieces of metal up in there.The car is an automatic, by the way-aw70 I believe. I dunno if this makes a difference, but it might when trying to get the pan out.Anyone got any advice?

Me,

If it's just the drain threads that are the problem ... I'd recut and get a new larger diameter drain plug. As far as metal getting into the pan pour a couple of quarts of inexpensive oil through after you cut the new threads and it should flush out any loose metal particles. If you do pull the pan ... I'd consider replacing the pump, seals and the various items mentioned in other posts. No sense going through the hassle of pulling the pan any more often than you need to. I'd still seriously consider re-threading the exiting pan drain hole. My $.02

Having done the oil pan according to Volvo Service manual, with input from Bentley and some lazyness, an engine hoist is worth the price. Takes about two hours including lunch.

If using any engine lifting method, DISCONNECT the upper radiator hose from the radiator. The plastic necks love to break as the hose stretches. (Shared cost reduction experience)

As raidman said, lifting the engine makes it easier, !!after disconnecting !!AND REMOVING the engine mounts. This simple step allows the oil pan to !!ROTATE 90 degrees and clear everything by just coming straight down. No need to bash baffle plates. Just turn the pan either right or left and remove. Engine mounts must be off.

Suggest while pan off, replace the cranckcase breather oil trap drain hose. You will find it brittle after all these years and will quite possibly damage it during pan removal.

Duane

Hello Me:
Just finished replacing the oil seals on the oil pump on son's 83 245 (engine rebuiler forgot to put one in) and it was a "FEMALE DOG"!! Bentley is correct, but you don't have to lower the cross member. Remove the nuts for the motor mounts, use a BIG jack under the front puller (with a piece of wood) and LIFT it high.Stabilize from the back. To clear the pan on refitting you will have to bend (bang with the BFH)some of the baffles down.
Works like a charm now. took 3 evenings and much skin.
buena suerte,
el Raidman

uuuuh well if the engine is in the car....you better heed Bentley. Don't let the kids get too near if you don't want them to learn a few more choice words. It can be done (Don Foster thinks it's easy) but not my fun Saturday entertainment.
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http://www.fidalgo.net/~brook4/oilslubesfilters.html

I haven't done a 200 series oil pan, but the 740 oil pan/oil pump replacement is not bad. I can do the oil pump replacement in 3.5 hours, start to finish. It is headliners that I truly dislike doing.

Hey- you think I could rent Don Foster for the weekend? Mr. Foster? How 'bout it?