I'm doing my steering rack replacement. From Chilton's I can't tell what to loosen on the rack. It looks like I should remove something from the bottom of the rack where the steering column enters.

Also, on the column I can see that there are two bolts with cotter pins. Do I remove them both?

Anyboby got a good way to do this?

THanks,
jc
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1985 740gle na, 1990 740gle 16 valve

JC,

I found Chilton's is not the best source of information. Haynes is better and even though the Bentley 240 manual is of course for 240s it has a great deal of info that does apply to the 700/900 four cylinder engines since they are the same. In regard to removing your 700 rack

On a level surface ... jack up the front end and support both sides with jack stands ... set the parking brake ... put the tranny in park (auto) or in gear manual ... block the back wheels to assure it wouldn't come off the stands.
Turn the steering wheel until the front wheels are pointed straight ahead. Remove the front wheels. Remove the belly pan (Black plastic tray under the egine)Remove the cover from the middle of the cross member reveling the bottom of the rack. Pull the spring clip from the lower bolt on the steering column U joint loosen and remove the bolt and slide the U joint up off the steering rack pinion. Disconect the tie rod ends from the steering arms. Clean all the gunk off the connections for the two hydraulic lines and remove them. You will have P/S fluid leak so have something to catch it. I'd cover the end of the P/S lines with baggies and secure them with twist ties to keep dirt out while replacing the rack. Now there are two large mounting bolts holding the rack into the cross member. Remove them and the rack will drop down and out. Set you replacement rack next to the old rack and make sure the lenghts of the tie rods extending from the rack are the same. This will allow the new rack to be set with the wheels pointing straight ahead. When you install it make sure your steering wheel remains centered as you reconnect the u joint from the column.
I'd get new crush washers for the hydraulic connections, tie rod ends, and it's a good time to replace the ball joints and radius rod bushings if they need renewal or are getting close to it. Don't over torque the fluid line connections ... the threads in the rack can easily strip out. Just get the connections tight enough not to leak ... new washers help. I'd use Mobile 1 ATF to refill the system. Get front end alignment when you are done.
Good luck

I have 1 warning to add to this excellent post. With the steering column disconected, it is important to keep the steering wheel from turning. 1/2 turn 1 way or the other wont hurt, but if it turns too much, air bag contact unit could be damaged. Best to lock the column.