Started noon Wed, finished 11AM friday. Probably 8-10 hours total wrench time. Did rear main seal, tranny mount and pilot bushing while I was in there. Reason for job was the throwout bearing failed, the disk looked almost as thick as the new replacement probably had another 50-80K of life in it.

My fork has no return spring. Is this normal? the adjuster is the platic one that rides up and down the spirals on the cable. When I adjust for more freeplay, the pedal moves towards the floor. I looked around and don't see anywhere to hook a spring should it need one.

The new Sachs pressure plate looked a lot different than the one that came out. Old (Sachs) presure plate had a date of '91 on it and was much heavier, the plate appeared thicker and the housing was much deeper than the replacement, the fingers stuck out further on the new plate, making it the same overall depth. Car is an 82 B21FTi, with the dealer installed intercooler. Everything seems to work OK, just hope this plate will stand up to the 170 or so HP I'm making.

Only other issues were I has to really pull on the crossmember forward (with a come along) to make the bolt holes line up. The new tranny mount looks a little squashed too. Could worn motor mounts cause this? Lastly, the shifter seems a little more wiggily. I got all the nylon and rubber spacers back in correctly under the snap ring. The pin and set screw don't have any spacers do they?

As always, thanks for the great advice from this board, made the job go a lot easier. The anticipation was far worse than the actual event.

Bob (greasey)
'82 intercooled turbowagon

I quickly trashed my brand new stock clutch when I put the boost over 10 psi.
Be careful raising the boost with a stock turbo flat flywheel clutch. If you
have the recessed flywheel clutch that supposedly will hold up to around 200 hp.
This probably corresponds to about 220 ft lbs of torque?

It's normal not to have a return spring. You can add one if you want a quicker more positive return of the clutch pedal. I added one. There is a hole on the crossmember bracket for the spring. When installing a new tranny mount I usually have to pry the crossmember forward also. In my experience there is a spacer on the pin and set screw. If I remember correctly it is on the left side when the shifter slides into position.

Other folks may not like it but I like the stock clutch cable with the adjuster that adjusts on the metal threads on the outside of the cable. Original Volvo control cables are the best quality and longest lasting. At least in my experience. Aftermarket clutch and e-brake cables are really garbage compared to the original stuff. The only aftermarket cable that has worked well for me is the speedo cables. Just spray the outside metal threads of the clutch cable with some lubricant before you adjust it. This will make it a lot easier. Happy rolling!

Dave 82 242ti 276k mi.

Thanks Dave! This is exactly the type of info I was after. Do you happen to remember what that spacer looked like? I found a litle nylon sleeve with a flat end lying on the ground when I was done and wondered if this might be the thing that goes in between the pin and the fork on the shift mechanism. It's awfully hard to see up there with the tranny installed.

Bob
82 intercooled tubowagon 234K

Your very welcome Bob. That does sound like it could be the spacer/bushing. It's really just a spacer washer. Is that what you found? It definitely sounds like one of the bushings that goes in the shifter arm that attaches to the shifter. The early 240s it was made of brass and sometimes would disintegrate on you when it was old. I believe the newer 80s models the spacer and the bushings are plastic or nylon. Happy rolling!

Dave 82 242ti 276k mi.