Okay here goes...
Just got the car running fine after changing the injectors last week. Previously changed coil, plugs, plug wires, dist.cap, fuel filter, both relays under passenger kick panel, alternator, Idle air valve, wiring harness all within the past 5000 miles.

Yesterday ran smooth as a top, went to the store, dead battery when I tried to leave.

Here's where I hope I didn't mess up.

Charged the battery overnite with a trickle charge- but I forgot to unhook the pos. and neg. cables.

Started the car this morning, ran great to work, went to leave and no fuel pump sound. Jumped the relay, heard the pump whirring, no crank. No tools with me, so I came home to get some to check if fuel is coming out at the injectors. Did I damage the ECU by not disconnecting the battery cables? Why won't it start after jumping the relay? Why do I have to jump the relay? Ran fine this morning...ARRGHHHHH!!
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'83 244GL 210K

Hi -

Here is a big clue: "Yesterday ran smooth as a top, went to the store, dead battery when I tried to leave."

Something is draining the battery, or else it isn't charging in a way that the "Battery" light isn't working correctly. Often an open circuit in the exciter wire (thin red one on back of alternator).

Leaving the battery terminals connected during an overnight trickle charge has never caused a problem for me.

I have found that when the battery charge is way low, things seem to work but the starter won't crank - or even click. My usual check is to (1) mutter OH! S___T a few times while sitting there.

Then (2) with door open, and dome light on, try the start again while watching the light. If the light goes way down dim, almost out - the battery is too pooped to pop. Charge it up again with the trickler.

BTW - do not try to jump start a car with a dead battery and then use the car to charge it. Alternators are designed to keep the battery full, sort of a topping off deal. Putting it under a big load, like charging from dead, can damage the alternator. Good that you have a charger. Mine has been a good investment.

With the battery charged it's easier to find the "leak". There's a way descdibed in the FAQ, I think - has to do with pulling fuses one at a time.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)


PS - Are you getting parts from VPI? Old Katy Road just West of the tollway.
713-722-0505. John knows Volvos. Has a Volvo 240T Limo, among others.

Damn that was fast! Must have posted as I was emailing you. I jumped the car yesterday and did drive it home at dusk w\lights on- noticed the gauges were fading sitting at a long light, so I took it out of OD and kept the rpm's up. By the time I got home,the dash lights were bright as normal, but I probably hurt the alternator. Going to see what I can see. Cant comprendo the relay biz though....LOL AARRGGGHHH
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'83 244GL 210K

Got to work,no fuel pump sound. Jumped fuse panel, started right up. let run awhile, left work- 1 block later, fuel pump stopped. Jumped fuse panel all the way home. stopped in driveway, started right up. Must be an electrical gremlin seems to be in the fuse panel? Fuses aren't dirty. Thoughts?
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'83 244GL 210K

Went back out later- no start. Checked and still pumping fuel,jumped fuse panel, pump whirring, no start. Guess its time to go to a shop...WAAAAA
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'83 244GL 210K

Well, it shouldn't be either the fuel pump or main system relays, since you replaced them. New ones? Those two can get microscopic cracks in the solder and can go wacky.

Check the 25-amp fuse on the connector rail that is mounted on the inner LF fender behind from the battery. That fuse has never blown on my 240's, but the fuse holder gets full of corrosion and road crud and the plastic goes bad over the years so the connection gets weak.

Actually, I took the fuseholder on my 1986 B230F apart, and it was so shot that it fell into pieces. The wires going into the fuseholder have terminals on them that the fuse can be stuck into. I trashed the fuseholder and jammed the fuse into the wire terminals, and put the thing in a place where it won't wander around and touch something. Worked OK for months. Then I found an in-line waterproof fuseholder for about $17 at IPD, or about $3.00 a Radio Shack.
No brainer there.

Did you check the thin red wire on the back of the alternator? If it isn't right the alternator will not charge.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)

25 amp fuse ok. guess I'll take it back to poutous auto repair and let them find the gremlin. Battery is fully charged now.
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'83 244GL 210K

I know you've been this route already, but you want to make sure that the fuel pump relays are the right ones.
My friend put up with a similarly annoying problem on a '76 242 (it's a convertible!). The battery was draining when sitting, and he had to remove one of the two fuel pump relays to prevent it. Then to start had to plug it back in... I could see a similar situation going on here.
Make sure that you've got the right ones- I know they're different units, I don't know what the markings are offhand- and that they're in the right locations, if you changed them out.
I very much doubt that you could hurt anything by charging the battery with the charger. Never seen damage from that.
I HAVE seen quite a few (particularly older) Volvo's with damaged alternators from jumpstarting- usually it's damaging to GIVE someone a jump, but if your battery was dead, I'd search for alternator troubles first.
The newer cars seem to not be affected as much- I don't know if the later units are stronger, or just newer.
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Rob Bareiss, New London, CT 86 244, 87 244, 88 744