I know there have been several questions regarding brake bleeding in the past 24 hours. One more.... I still have a soft pedal, I have been using a combination of the traditional 2-person method, and using a cheap vacuum bleeder product. I'm sure that my master cylinder is good because there is no fade... is that a correct assumption? I can also lock up the fronts on dry pavement. But, my drivers rear caliper, (I replaced the rears), still is not actuating. I am thinking of purchasing the Ez-Bleed from IPD, as I dont have the time or materials to build my own pressure type bleeder, Is the likelyhood high that I can still successfully bleed the system with the pressure bleed system even after I have gottn air into who-knows-where via my efforts up to this point.

Thank You

--
'82 DL - 150k, '93 945 - 96k

Here is an alternative to IPD product.

Motive
--
Regards,

David
1991 744 NA 139+K Miles

The pressure bleeder should do it unless something has failed in the distribution block/brake warning switch thing. (Good technical description there)

===
Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: 86 244DL (now tranny lines are leaking), 87 244DL (has new lines), 88 744GLE (Never leaks a damn thing, can't understand it but not complaining)

Thanks for the reply, the haynes manual is a little vague describing the bleeding order. DO you have a method / process for pressure bleeding? Or can I just start at the wheel closest to the MC and work my way to the furthest wheel. Thanks,

Matt

--
'82 DL - 150k, '93 945 - 96k

The sequence is: (from the Bentley manual)
1. left rear
2.left front top chamber (single bleeder - top)
3. right front top chamber (single bleeder - top)
4. right rear
5. right front - lower chambers (two bleeders, middle of caliper alongside pads, inside and outside)
6. left front - lower chambers (two bleeders, middle of caliper alongside pads, inside and outside)

I put the front up on jackstands and remove both wheels. Then I use a floor jack at each rear corner as I need to bleed that rear caliper. It takes at least a quart of DOT 4 to bleed and flush the system Hope this helps. I ended up with nice firm brakes.

thank you very much, I have been searching for a definitive sequence for bleeding, the floor jack for the rear was simply for gaining access to the bleeder valve, I suspect. I think I am going to order the Motive Products Power Bleeder!

Thanks All!

Matt

--
'82 DL - 150k, '93 945 - 96k

Sorry I wan't more clear. Yes, I used the floor jack under the front center to get the front up on jackstands then used it at each rear corner to jack up the car to remove the wheel and bleed that caliper. Then replace the wheel, lower the car and so on. Instead of the spare tire for air pressure, I used one of the front tires. I have an air compressor to refill the tire (the tire pressure needs to be bled down to about 15 psi for the bleeder).