My 82 GLT suddenly began to demonstrate startup problems when the cold weather finally arrived. It won't fire at all on the first key twist. I then do a number of key twists and it then starts and runs fairly well. It then will start fine as long as the car is warm. The next morning, the problem returns.

I changed the cold-start injector despite the parts lady's warning that she hadn't ordered one of them in ten years [we are blessed with one of the best parts people I've ever met at the local Volvo dealer]. This did not solve the problem.

I did check that the thermal time switch was working and it indeed did seem to be sending its signal to the injector.

Cheryl [Volvo parts lady] suggested the air slide or auxiliary air valve but I'm down $128CAN now and would like to avoid another mistake.

Bob

Bob,

Having owned 2 B23E equipped bricks I almost consider myself an expert on how to fix every little quandry on them. I could leave my last one(an '83 242 GLT with over 600,000 km)out on the minus 50 windchilled sidestreets of Ottawa and it never failed to start on the 1st turn. On to your problem. Likely something to do with the control pressure regulator. It's that chunk of metal under the rubber boot on the intake. The average B23E hasn't had that boot off in about 200,000 km. Take it off. 1 screw for top and bottom respectively, wiggle and twist gently with some WD40 to get it out. That will expose what looks like a little disc on the bottom with a nut in the middle. Make sure it has clear, unobstructed travel down and up. The travel back up on it should be delayed, maybe 1 to 2 seconds. Take off the plastic intake hose below it, remove the 10mm nut that holds the disc, and unload a ton of carb cleaner into it. Take a rag, wipe the bottom intake side reasonably dry, and if you have any cleaner left, spray up into the throttle body while opening and closing the throttle. Make sure the disc in free and clear when you put it back on, it's not that hard, a little trial and error. Reassemble carefully making sure the boot seals up nice, it is an odd shape to prevent getting it on wrong. Make absolutely sure the wiring connector goes in tight with both wires making contact. The first start after this will be a little hard, make sure your battery is fully charged. If the car doesn't start after repeated effort, unplug the connector. We now have your problem. Bring it to someone with a CO analyser, plug it back in and get them to adjust it into spec, the instructions are on the engine family sticker on the shock tower. If it starts, run it a little to get rid of the excess carb cleaner and that should do it.

Email me if you have any more questions,

Happy Bricking!!!

Richard

87 245 DL 338,000 km and counting