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Hi, my 90 240 does not want to go into od (auto). The dash light stays on but apprears to flicker when the button is pushed so I assume the switch is good. I checked past threads and there is mention of the relays being a problem. Does this sound like my problem? If the soleniod stops working, is the non-energized postion in or out of od? Thanks for the help.
art
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It has been a couple of years since I put my '87 245 away after a rear end accident. Before I did I was having a problem with no OD. And I have gone over it from all standpoints. I replaced the relay, replaced the KickDown cable and removed and cleaned the solinoid. I even took it the the Volvo Dealer here and he couldn't(wouldn't) help. So, I can check all those things again or just get another tranny and replace the whole thing. My car has 202,000 so I might just replace. My question is... is it possible for a AW71 to just not got into overdrive even when button, relay, solinoid, harness and cable are all indicating that they are operating fine? Have you experienced a no OD tranny with all external components working? I can try again doing my testing but ...Help me decide to bail on this tranny or get it to a transmission place for a flush.(I haven't flushed yet.)
Christopher Virgilthevolvo
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Do the flush. I had no OD on my 88 740 with the AW tranny. After confirming relay, wiring solonoid etc were all good I flushed and put in Mobil synthetic ATF. The results were immediate! OD worked and it cured a delayed rough shift from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd.
You should be absolutely sure solonoid is working by listening for it's distinctive click when pressing the button, key on, engine off and an ear under the car. Some people have mistaken this for the click heard in the dash of the relay.
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David Hunter
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I forgot to answer your other questions.
If the solenoid failed (which would be the same as getting no power), the "non-energized position" would be non-OD.
However........... the orange indicator bulb does NOT indicate the actual solenoid condition or position -- it only indicates whether or not the relay is sending 12 volts to the solenoid. That is, if the solenoid had failed but all else worked fine, the orange light would go on 'n off with the pushbutton.
This is not the case with your car.
EVERY indication is that the relay solder connections have failed. There's a slight possibility that the wires from the pushbutton to the relay are shorting together or to ground.
Your OD relay is behind the right-center vent in the dash. It is buried under a thick wiring harness, clipped to a metal strut. You can easily access it by removing the glovebox -- look in and to the left. The first picture below shows the OD relay location in my '82 245 4-spd. This car has a blue relay, yours has a white relay, but the location is identical.
The second picture shows the relay -- note the metal clip on the blue plastic box, which is used the secure the relay to the metal strut. Remove and toss the metal clip. It usually squeezes the plastic box into the relay and can cause the relay to malfunction. When you reassemble everything, merely tuck the relay under the harness and it will be perfect for the next 350 years.
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Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)
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" When you reassemble everything, merely tuck the relay under the harness and it will be perfect for the next 350 years."
Is that a guarantee? :-)
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Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: 86 244DL, 87 244DL, 88 744GLE: 625K total
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Not a guarantee, per se, but highly likely. The last one I did, six months ago, lasted 385 years.
;-)
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Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)
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I accessed the relay and wiggled it w/ the ignition on the sure enough got the od to intermittently go in and out. After removel and inspection of the board,all three "possible" solder joints were stress cracked around the whole circumfrance of the component post! Thanks for a 15 minute fix!!! Apparantly the coil mount flexs enough to cause a failure of the joints. Bad Hella.
taylor
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"Apparantly the coil mount flexs enough to cause a failure of the joints..."
I think it's a result of the solder composition, soldering process, and size of the soldered connections rather than flexing....sooooo, solder everything in sight. The composition of the type of solder you use with a soldering iron is far different than the type of solder used in the automated "wave soldering" process.
I use a 25 Watt iron on the small connections and a 175 Watt gun on the heavier connections.
Also solder your fuel pump relay. It will suffer just the same fate but will leave you stranded with a dead car rather than dead OD. And guaranteed that it will happen a zillion miles from nowhere on a cold, wet, stormy Sunday night on a holiday weekend at 2 a.m. when you and family MUST be somewhere and your cell phone battery is dead.
Fuel pump relays are sneaky that way.
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Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)
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