Is it totaly necessary to replace my old brake pads with the expensive Volvo ones? The estimate is 257.00 vs. 91.00 for some generic brand. I'm not comfortable with doing this kind of work my self and my pockets are pretty empty right now. Thanks!

I never used OEM's after the original pair ran down. Whatever NAPA sells seems of quality and I can stop fine.
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwr and two motorcycles: it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me

If you must have someone else do them, take the car to a good Indy Volvo repair shop (not Midas) that will use good after market pads and as Richard said make sure they use anti-squeal shims and be very generous with anti-seize lubricant - SlyGlide or similar.

If, however, you are willing to venture into the unknown and try this job yourself, I think you'll be surprised how easy it is. With limited experience, last March I replaced rear calipers, rotors, pads, bled and flushed the system on my 240. Doing the front pads is a breeze. You also save alot of $$$$$$$.

Here is some direction:
1. Get yourself a Bentley or a Haynes manual - read about the job first
2. Call FCP of Groton and order some pads and anti-squeal shims. Nick is great, he'll help you out. Less than $25 for both
3. Get some SlyGlide from your local parts store
4. Borrow or rent jack and jack stands
5. Have appropriate tools available - lug wrench, hammer, punch etc.
6. Go for it and have fun!!!


Good luck,
Jim 1990 244DL 208K

Just a follow-up.

PBR brake pads have worked well on my rear brakes, not too much dust and with the anti-squeal shims installed there is no squeal!!!

Hello,

My solution to the age old brake replacement problems have been cheapie UAP rotors (nice and soft) combined with low dust PBR pads available thru IPD or FCP Groton for very reasonable prices. This combination will yeild solid, consistent stops from very high speed and it will last a long time. The Volvo pads are too soft, they chew rotors and put all sorts of black crap on your wheels. Make sure you use anti-squeel shims and be very generous with anti-seize lubricant. Just as a general maintenance tip, service your brakes every six months by cleaning them thoroughly, exercising the pistons and master cylinder fully, then re-greasing them. This way your master cyl will stay nice and firm, and the car will stop straight hands on or off the wheel.

Good Luck and Happy Bricking!!!

Richard
87 245 DL 339,000 km
82 242 GLT 121,000 km

The Volvo pads are good, but dusty. Among aftermarket pads, some are cleaner than others, and most will be more likely to squeal then stock pads. If you are determined to let someone else do the work, just make sure the non-Volvo pads are a good name like Mintex, Repco/PBR, Lucas, Bendix - and that your mechanic stands behind them.

This is an easy job to do yourself, and it won't take long. There are no special tools required. If you can get the wheel off (to change a tire) you can replace the pads. In fact, at that point, you've done a big part of the work. I'm not sure about the details fo your '86, but disc brakes (any car)are pretty much the same - and easy work. Just to be sure for the first time, a Haynes manual will show you how. You can save the difference between the cost of having it done and the cost of pads. The last ones I got were certainly under $30.00.

Don't know about the pads but I DO KNOW not to forget the ANTI-SQUEAL SHIMS!
--
'83 244GL 210K

I just replaced the pads on my '84 244 last weekend - easiest brake job I ever did. I'm a novice "shadetree" mechanic at best too. Rotating the pins to reinstall the clips was the trickiest part of the job (fat fingers lol).... I used Raybestos Premium pads from a local parts store, $31.00 a set.