It is a 1979 2 door...4 spd. It is in all around good condition...and I am curious what I should look out for...if you guys could help...it would be greatly appreciated!!! Thanx, Ron.

Sorry I forgot to put in the year before!!

take a look at this page, it contains an extensive checklist of things to look for when buying a used car(volvo especially). Print it off and take it with you when you look at the car next.

you may not have all the tools needed to check all items, but i think you get the point. there are plenty of things on this list i had forgot about even after buying many used cars. it also includes a bill of sale and odometer contract to cover your a$$ in case the previous owner may have lied about something.

http://www.skypoint.com/~enevala/usedcarfaq.txt

hope this helps,
Chuck

My 2 cents,

The 240 was made for so many years, parts prices are CHEAP compared to most other makes. Esp. for heavy duty parts like on a 240, seen how many Volvo semis are on the road?

Once a model ages, esp. if parts are somewhat standardized....for ex. I think all 4 cyl (8 valve?) Volvos since the 60s use the same oil filter.

As long as the car hasn't been wrecked or is badly rusted, everything is repairable by you or someone else who cares, not necessarily a high priced "fancy" mechanic. Very sensible design, no nonsense, will probably seem refreshing compared to other cars you've had.

I miss the 242 I had, now have a 245. The 4 door and wagon models have smaller (in length) doors which presents a bit of a prob. for ingress/egress for taller individuals esp. those long in the leg. 2 door model seat-backs also fold down, 4-door don't.

They stopped the 2 door in 84'85, too bad for some of us. Lowest production of all 240s was 2 doors, I'll bet they become collectible, your car might bring back more than you paid for it. Fashions change, then they resurge.

Isn't it "fashionable" to drive a safe car? What's the scene on the roadways these days in your neck of the woods?

Frank

Exact model number would be nice to know: should be a badge on the right trunk lid. Things to ask/do:
1. Service history, more details the better. These cars will last forever if the oil and filter are changed every 5000 miles or 3 months, whichever comes first. There are other important service intervals: look in the owner's manual.
2. Take the car to a good independent Volvo shop for an evaluation. Should cost $50-100, and will be the best possible protection for your investment. I don't take my car to the dealer's mechanics. Ask other local Volvo owners for a referral, or ask on the BrickBoard. A good, experienced independent Volvo mechanic is just what your car needs.
3. For part of your test drive, drive the car hard. Listen for the rattles and other noises the other respondent mentioned. There will probably be some -- this is not a new car. But all suspension shops know the Volvo 200 body style REALLY WELL, and Volvo keeps every part in stock. Mere money and a bit of time, and that car will be smooth and quiet. You just gotta decide how much quiet you can afford.
4. Similar comments about the engine. There are people who race Volvos -- even earlier ones than 79. Again, you decide how much power you want to afford. The archived posts mention somebody with over 400 HP in his 240.
5. Decide whether you care what other folks think of your car. I happen to think the 240 body style looks darned good. Other folks don't -- and I don't care. However, if, God forbid, you happen to get into an accident, I sure hope you are inside a Volvo. All that safety stuff in the Volvo advertisements? It really works. Take it from me.

I admit to a very evident bias: I've been driving only Volvos since 1983. They are truly great cars.


Let us know what you decide.
--
-- Bruce / '82 244 (298k miles!), '86 745, '87 760Ti, '94 854

Is it a GT? Nice car, somewhat rare.

RUST: front and rear floor pans, behind the rear wheel wells. Pour water down the windshield and watch to see if any comes in under the dash. Get under the car and poke around with a screwdriver. If all is sound, you won't hurt a thing, but if you go through the floor it's not like you damaged anything that wasn't ready to let go! You can weld new floorpans in if the seller will deduct that cost and you otherwise like the car. Dampness and a moldy smell in the carpets are warning signs.

Test drive - squeaks or rattles over bumps indicate worn suspension parts, usually bushings or ball joints. Some are somewhat difficult to replace, requiring special tools.

Electrical gremlins, lights and gauges that don't work, etc. These old 200 series had wiring harnesses highly susceptible to deterioraton.

If the ventilation fan is dead or noisy, that's a labor-intensive item to replace, (easily $600).

Noisy, whining or singing fuel pump - means that the in-tank pump is probably dead and the overworked main pump (under car) is soon to fail.

Of course, all the standard used car checks: how's it look through the oil filler cap, tire wear, braking without pulling to one side, rust and crud in radiator, etc.

I know little about Volvo motors - mine has a Ford in it.
--
'84 "285" rice-eater with lotsa hp & performance goodies