Will they self destruct?

245 87 115k mi.

If you get new bearings, or even if you just repack the ones you have, besides getting new cotter pins, i would suggest you also get new seals and caps. These are located at the inner end of the hub and prevent the grease (and bearing) from running out onto the spindle. They are well worth the few extra $s.

How loose is a little loose? If you can feel, but not see or hear, a little click of movement when you grab the top of the tire and shake in and out vigorously, then you can adjust them and probably go a long way yet. If they are so loose that you can see the wheel wobble, the bearings have been badly beaten up and won't last long even if you adjust them now.

I try to replace wheel bearings and brake rotors at the same time, while I'm in there. Aren't your rotors about due?

Adding grease is an excellent idea, IF the grease you add is the same kind that is already in there. Bearings don't necessarily respond well to having two kinds of grease in them. If you plan on replacing them soon anyway, it doesn't much matter whether you add grease or not. If you are shooting for 200k, you should figure out what kind of grease they have in them.

If you don't have the service manual (or even if you do) the old mechanic's method of adjusting ALL tapered roller wheel bearings on passenger cars is as follows:

Get a flat blade screwdriver
Tighten nut until snug (a little extra rolling resistance) when you spin the wheel.
Take your screwdriver and put it between the edge of the big washer under the nut and the inside of the hub. Back off the nut little by little. When you can just move the washer under the nut by twisting (NOT PRYING) the screwdriver, the nut is at just the right tension to load the bearings properly.

If the wheel still has play after this adjustment, either the bearing is shot or the looseness is elsewhere in the suspension.

As noted elsewhere, a new cotter key is a good idea.

Happy bricking.

1991 245 180k miles

Yes, they will self-destruct if they are ignored, but you'll probably notice the rough feel and howling noises before then. Take a look at the bearings, if the needles fall out, immeadiately replace them. If they are a little sloppy and the race does not appear to be overly scoured or roughed up, just repack them, snug them up but do not over tighten, that will cause premature failure.

However, give credence to the thought that good wheel bearings are relatively inexpensive, they do not require PHD to repalce them, and mostly, your car will drive nicer and you will be safer. Always replace the cotter pin with new one.

If you overtighten them, they'll eventually die. But if you snug them up--assuming you know for a fact that they are loose--then it won't hurt. Like Patrick said, regrease them. the grease eventually spins out and they'll love being repacked. Make sure you have the tightening/torque figures correct, and a new cotter pin. They do have the ability to be adjusted a little bit, but if they are way out, chances are that the bearing rollers or the races (or both) are beyond bothering with adjustment anymore.
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1992 940 wagon, low miles
as well as others.

I would regrease them first. Also ARe you sure it's the bearing, blown ball joints etc might make you think the play was a bearing.
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Disclaimer: be careful, work safely!!! If you have any doubts as to the safety of the work you are doing, consult a proffessional before you hurt yourself or others!!! I'm not a licensed mechanic, I have just been fixing stuff my whole life, patrick of