2 steps forward an one step back.
to date I have:
1) Replaced external fuel pump/filter.
2) Replace short length of fuel line on the in tank pump.
3) New plugs.
4) cleaned the idle bypass solenoid.
This car died in my driveway shortly after my daughter bought it. It was
a dead ext. fuel pump. Installed new one and still sounded like it was searching.
Pulled internal pump and found split in the rubber line that connects it to the
metal supply output line. Bench tested pump.. ran well.
Car now runs but doesnt want to idle when it warms up... Cleaned out the idle
bypass solenoid and made headway. It sounded much better. Cleaned the throttle body as well as you can without pulling it off the car. I had this damn thing running
to where it wasnt stalling. HHMMM... I dont hear the throttle body switch sez I. So I adjusted the the switch so that you can hear it when you activate the flap.
MADE IT WORSE! WTF?
So any words of wisdom would be great.. I am close to taking it to a shop!
This cant be that complex! Why would adjusting the switch so that it engages make it worse!?
----------------AARRGGHH!
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vw bus site - http://www.geocities.com/vw_bus_74/index.html

HHHmm seems like the text isnt displayed if you use the < things
so here is the pictures taken and posted to date. more to come.
http://www.geocities.com/magicbus1974/volvo/volvo1.htm

I have actually gotten some e-mail from VW Bus drivers that have
seen the link on my site. seems to be a common thread tween bus and
brick drivers ? I.E. many own both.. interesting
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vw bus site - http://www.geocities.com/vw_bus_74/index.html

Axel- Take a close look at the plastic intake hose thet fits between the AMM and the throttle boby. They can sometimes rub against the strut tower which wears a hole in them, pull it off and hold it up to the light. Just replaced mine, solved a lot of my problems and car runs like a dream.
--
Bruce S. near D.C.

Sounds to me like you have a vacuum leak somewhere. If you search the board you'll find a bazillion posts about this. I've had the same problem and these are things I've changed or checked.
1. Injector seals
2. Intake manifold gasket
3. complete Throttle body service
4. All Vacuum hoses ( 2 for Idle bypass, 2 for flame trap, main intake hose between AMM and Throttle body, 2 small hoses off side of throttle body that go to charcoal tank, and brake boost vacuum hose)
5. Check or change water temp. sensor (for computer not guage)
6. check air mass meter
7. check preheat hose and airbox thermostat(if thermostat is stuck open it could fry the AMM by letting hot air in all the time, assuming the preheat hose is connected.)


There are procedures to check for leaks using a propane torch(unlit w/ gas coming out). I've never done that but apparently it works really well. Check the board for that one.

It might help some if you could be bit more specific about how the cars runs not only at idle but also while driving, accelerating etc.

Let us know

Marty
p.s. Of course there is the very high likelyhood that you have a bad wiring harness(very common for 80-87? 240's) in which case none of the above will completely solve the problem, though some of them may improve it a bit.

Hi Marty... been somewhat preoccupied with work The vacuum leak is possible.. although I have looked but the can be elusive. As to your check list....

these are things I've changed or checked.
1. Injector seals -----checked-------
2. Intake manifold gasket-----not yet------
3. complete Throttle body service -----incomplete service at this point----
4. All Vacuum hoses ( 2 for Idle bypass, 2 for flame trap, main intake hose between AMM and Throttle body, 2
small hoses off side of throttle body that go to charcoal tank, and brake boost vacuum hose)
----Idle bypass hoses a intact/flame trap hoses checked (trimmed one) cleaned
flame trap mesh thing. / charcoal tank --not checked / brake boost not checked
5. Check or change water temp. sensor (for computer not guage)---checked---
6. check air mass meter ----OK will read up on that but the only thing I know is the burn off function is working at this point---
7. check preheat hose and airbox thermostat(if thermostat is stuck open it could fry the AMM by letting hot air
in all the time, assuming the preheat hose is connected.) ---- HHMMM havent found this yet! Helpfull hints? To me an "airbox" is the MAS. (VW slang) are you refering to something else?

It might help some if you could be bit more specific about how the cars runs not only at idle but also while
driving, accelerating etc.
---OK. This car starts easily. Runs smoothly while warming up. When warm the idle searches. Running down the road it seems to run very well with no hesitation and reasonable acceleration.
**************NOTE!************
***** I installed a new Bosch blue coil last night and it greatly improved the
situation!!! To the point where I feel I am at a real tune up starting point.
Still has a bit of search but I am going to pull the Solenoid and clean it with
carb cleaner this time. BUT! I feel it made a significant differance!
I do plan on looking into the hoses a bit closer though... this preheat thing I could use some pointers on though.

----Wiring harness seems intact from the basic checks I have done.. but!!!
I will continue looking at it.
I guess the puzzle is it seemed to drive and idle well untill the fuel pump died. I could hear it when driving the car (for 2 days) and had planned on looking at it on the weekend... it gave up before I got to the weekend... at least in my driveway an not on the freeway!

Thanks for your time.. photos coming just need to upload them to this
location some
stuff is already there. it's pretty basic but Once I get this shaken down
I will put the info together in a better format an leave it up linked
from my Vee Dubb site.

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vw bus site - http://www.geocities.com/vw_bus_74/index.html

Hi Axel. The airbox is the big black box next to the radiator that holds the air filter. Which, now that I mention it, you might want to check the air filter too, to make sure that is not too clogged.

Disconnect the hard plastic hose just before the AMM and loosen the bracket on top of the airbox and it should tilt out fairly easily. There might/should be another hard black hose at the bottom next to the headlight. You'll see inside a spring loaded flap that pivots to cover two holes. One hole leads to the preheat hose which should be connected to the exhaust header by a special bracket. The other hole leads to the hard hose I mentioned earlier next to the headlight. Controlling this flap is a thermostat, that when taken out looks like an oversized pushpin. If in doubt just replace it I'm not sure how to check it except for at some critical temperature it will change from the pin part being out all the way to in most of the way. Check the brickboard or a haynes/Bently manual for that temp.

I would bet on a bad intake gasket and/or faulty Idle air control motor (bypass). Again check the BB for the procedure on checking the IAC. It's something like applying battery voltage in alternation accross the 3 terminals.

Good luck
Marty

And people wonder why I drive a 70's bus! ;-)
I found the metal line that wraps around and connects to the Air box (airfilter box) would be a better term for it but I digress.
I had a couple Red Hooks and ate chips n dip last night after work whilst watching the Apple cup in Pullman Washington. But before that I did pull the bypass solenoid AGAIN and cleaned it real well with carb cleaner this time.. HUGE difference!
So OK maybe I need to throw a new one in? I am debating.. just a little bit of
search left now. I actully am starting to think (concept) that although the in
tank pump made the appropriate noises on the bench that it may not be actually doing much pushing.. I dont have the require pressure gauge for the official check.
I will check the Airbox and preheat thing this afternoon afte I get home from
work.. Of course all of this couldnt happen before the overtime started up so I had entire weekends to putz with it! ;-) Ah well need parts $$ dont we!
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vw bus site - http://www.geocities.com/vw_bus_74/index.html

Marty's right about the wiring harness. I'm having similar problems with my '84 245 and improved conditions when I discovered and repaired some bad (Volvo biodegradable) insulation. It was at the large (approx. 1" x 2") gray connector block just aft of the valve cover at the center of the firewall. The wires running to the left of that connector had no insulation for an inch or two into the wiring harness and the conductors were contacting each other. It's easier to check this part of the harness if you unattach the connector from the firewall. It's held there by a metal clip.