Hi All,

Anyone have any experience with upgrading their early 240 model in-tank pump with the higher capacity 700 series pump? There's a note in IPD's catalog how you must shorten your fuel pickup tube by the difference in the pump lengths (~30mm) and "a new pump clamp is required", as well as the note, "a clamp is required to secure the pump to the pickup tube".

My old (shorter) pump has a raised ring around the pump body that keeps it from falling through the OEM plastic pump collar secured to the fuel return line. The new pump is missing this ring, and the pump just slides in and out of the pump collar. Reusing the old clamp will have the prepumpp supported just by the flexible fuel hose and its clamps. Can someone describe the new pump clamp and where one can be found?

Also, does anybody have a copy of the Volvo service bulliten that addresses this upgrade?

Thanks in advance!

Greg

Hi All,

Got the new pump installed on my '82 244, and much to my amazement, it cured the buzzing, moaning main pump and resonating fuel lines that have plagued me for the last 2 yrs. This is on the vehicle that the previous owner had the pre-pumps replaced twice and the main pump once.

So the key was to upgrade from the shorter OEM 240 pump to the longer, higher capacity pump that the 700 series uses. There's a bulletin from Volvo that describes this operation, but I've never actually seen it.

For the so inclined, here's what you need to do:

* Jack the rear end up so as to be able to access the return line coupling
* Disconnct battery ground
* Slide under car and using 14mm and 15mm wrenches, split the return fuel line coupling. This was probably the toughest, as they were tight...
* Going through trunk, fold back carpet to access over the top of the tank. Remove the two screws and pop the cover.
* Remove the plastic cover to the left of the access hatch. Remove (and clean) the ground wire, and pull the connector apart.
* Remove the outlet hose clamp and pop the fuel hose off.
* Now, this part goes easy if you buy the $24 "Fuel tank bung nut tool" from IPD - remove the sender retaining ring from the top of the sender.
* Pull up on the sender, pulling the return hose up towards the hatch. Be careful not to damage the float armature by bending it, rotate the sender until it is clear of the tank.

* Measure the length from the bottom of the sender plate to the bottom of the old pump housing with the sock removed). I got 9 7/8".
* Now, remove the old pre-pump, note the polarity of the connecters!
* Saw 30mm off the end of the pre-pump pickup tube because the new pump is longer. I used a small hacksaw, and tried to keep the whole assembly slightly clamped in a vice, with some small blocks of wood to keep the tube from flexing. Be very careful not to damage the electrical connections up near the sender, they're easy to crack.
* Cut a 2 1/2" length of good fuel hose and install on the pickup tube with a loose clamp on both ends.
* Slide the new pump (IPD# CU3517845) into the plastic collar housing - I also added a radiator hose clamp to keep if from falling through the collar.
* Slide the whole thing back and forth until to get your 9 7/8" or whatever, then clamp everything up.
* Install the electrical connections, don't forget the ground wire!
* Always use a new sock ($10 or so)
* Lub the large O-ring on top of the tank with some vasoline, then plop the whole thing back in. Tighten down, replace ground wire and connectors.
* Connect return fuel line.
* Replace ground on battery, lower vehicle
* Happy motoring!!

Thanks to all the brickboarders for many, many posts I reviewed to make this project possible!

Greg

I did the same exact thing with the hose clamp around the pump. The fuel hose between the pump and down tube is 5/16 and I clamped it both at the pump end and at the down tube end. Good Luck
Marty

I did the upgrade and simply used a hose clamp of the appropriate diameter around the 700 series pump to form a replacement for the "ridge" of the old prepump. This kept the pump from "falling through" the bracket.

Randy