I've replaced the AMM(went bad),O2 sensor and did a tune-up. The car still chugs at warm idle,as though it was running on 2or3 cylinders.As soon as I accelerate all seems fine. Steady speed seems O.K. too. I'm still getting a 1-1-3 code and check engine light is on....mileage and performance seem to be the same as before this problem. Other than the crummy idle when warm,it runs well. Where do I go from here? I've tried to search the archives, but couldn't find this problem described. Any educated guesses?

Mini me,
A regular on the board (ayeroll) warns against remanufactured airmass meters. I had a good used one and one on my sons car to swap with to see if the problem went away with a known good amm. Is yours a reman, or do you have an identical one to test it with? Also as mentioned spark plug wires can cause weird idle problems.One thing that I learned on the board is that the airbox thermostat can stick in the open position and burn up the amm.

Good luck, Jeff

Mini me,
A regular on the board (ayeroll) warns against remanufactured airmass meters. I had a good used one and one on my sons car to swap with to see if the problem went away with a known good amm. Is yours a reman, or do you have an identical one to test it with? Also as mentioned spark plug wires can cause weird idle problems.One thing that I learned on the board is that the airbox thermostat can stick in the open position and burn up the amm.

Good luck, Jeff

On my 84 I pulled the idle air bypass solenoid. Cleaned it with carb cleaner and the lubed it with a silcon spray.
Seems to have cured the problem..It only searched when warm. Tho your throttle switch could need adjustment. It tells the ECU that the throttle plate is closed
and activates the bypass solenoid.
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vw bus site - http://www.geocities.com/vw_bus_74/index.html

I had a simular problem with my wife's 87 idled like crap, but would accelerate and run fine at speed. No vacuum leaks, checked and cleaned distributor cap, pulled plug wires one at a time, still had the problem. Next I changed the spark plugs, problem solved. Plug wires can often cause this problem also, I would give the plugs and wires a close look.
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Bruce S. near D.C.

Check for a vacuum leak. If you have a hand-held propane torch, start the engine and bleed a little raw propane all around the intake manifold and all vacuum hoses and fittings. When the engine smooths out and accelerates, you have found your leak. The engine fan should disperse the unburned propane enough to keep you from blowing yourself into the middle of next week. You didn't care much for your beard and eyebrows anyway, right?

If you don't have a propane torch, you can use any flammable liquid in an aerosol can with a tube to direct it toward the potential leak. Remember that chlorinated solvents, like brake and carb cleaner, are not particularly flammable, so they don't work too well, but they are safer to use.

If it turns out to be the intake manifold gasket (common problem), this is an easy R&R if your car is normally aspirated (not turbo).

I tried this sucessfully,leaving my moustache and goatee intact! When I sprayed around the base of the middle two injectors, the idle smoothed right out. I assume that means the o-rings aren't sealing properly. Are the o-rings strictly a dealer item,or are there some generic ones that work? Thanks.....

Injector seals are cheap enough - get the right ones. If you can wait, get them from fcpgroton.com - good source with good prices.