I have the kid's 122 back together, but can't find the only ignition key he has (had?). I can have a locksmith come and make a new key. The cost is $35 for mobile service and $125 to make a new key. The blanks he has are probably for 140, but the kid is due back in town Friday and will have new blanks with him.

This has the original type armored cable to the coil, so it's Volvo-type stuff. I know I can replace the ignition switch with a generic type and use another type of coil, but I suspect themkid will want the original stuff left in place.

Are there any other alternatives?

As usual, thanks in advance for the advice.

Oops, thanks also to you guys for the suggestions on the timing gear problem. As it turned out the mark on the crankshaft gear was almost exactly 180 degrees away from its proper location when the cam gear mark was contacted the crank gear. I guess that makes it "only" about 90 degrees off.

I haven't worked on one of these for several years and have forgotten how much fun it really is, especially in comparison with my wife's 244.


Thanks for the help.

JIm Hampton

or maybe a differnt locksmith that seems kinda high.
--
rust free in west Texas

I'd start taking up a collection from fellow brickboarders... I'm sure we all have a few old keys laying about. Surely someone has one that will work. All them old locks have been around for a while, and are well worn often enough to accept any old Volvo key.

I'll look around and see what I can scare up.

In the mean time though...go with the locksmith to just pick the lock so you can push the button to get teh tumbler assembly out. At least you'll still have it in case you find the right key someday. Or, maybe you can still buy just the key and tumbler assembly from Volvo...

And...in the mean time even before that... you could leave the whole thing in place, and buy a cheap coil, and a cheap ignition switch (which you can hide under the dash to keep the stock look), and bypass both the original coil and switch....but leaving it in place for when you find that key. That would probably be cheapest, and effective from a preservation standpoint.

The original ignition/coil parts are getting few and far between... I wouldn't go cutting/destroying any parts...

Good luck!
-Matt

Somewhere or other I have actually got the key cutting codes, for those that have key numbers but no keys.

Regards

Pete

You may recall that I got my last timing gear in one tooth off the first
time.....
Just because you change switches doesn't mean you have to change coils.
I am on at least the 3rd switch in my 122 wagon and still have the original
coil. Works fine. The switch in it when I bought the car was from a Buick.
Although twisting off keys is a problem in the OEM switches, worn out switch
contacts is also a problem.
--
George Downs, The "original" Walrus3, Bartlesville, Oklahoma

Jim;

I guess you had to learn (or be reminded) the hard way about that cam...but it's good that you got it squared away...and far be it from me, or anyone else for that matter to make comments about your "dumbest mistake" ...let those who are without dumb mistakes throw the first insult!...but having a single key is just asking for more trouble and as you can see: Expense!

A less expensive (temporary) solution to allow you start and run the car until you find that single key, is to have that mobile locksmith just pick the ignition switch to the IGN ON position (easy for any locksmith, or, you can even try to do it yourself!), then push the retention pin behind panel at 3 o'clock *, and REMOVE the lock cylinder. You can then safely use a heavy straightbladed screwdriver carefully inserted into the slot in the ignition switch, to start, and run the car until you find the errant lone key, have a copy [or two] made, and reinstall the lock cylinder.

...and may I suggest installing a SwEm Start Switch upgrade ** so that you can prevent the well known "Beatles Effect" for vintage Volvo keys...you know...Twist and Shout!

Cheers

* see additional info at: http://www.intelab.com/swem/service%20notes.htm#Body
** see: http://www.intelab.com/swem/swemkits.htm

A new lock barrel and keys is cheaper than 160 Dollars. Drill the barrel out until the tumblers fall out. Then remove the barrel in the usual manner. (ignition in the on position, press release button a 10 to 11) Start car with screwdriver until new barrel arrives.


Regards


Pete

I assume it would have to be a Volvo part, right? Do I need to go to a dealer?

Jim

Yes Dealer, or someone like CVI Automotive, I've probably got a slightly used one kicking about complete with keys.

Its not that hard to get them out, just make sure you don't destroy the actual switch mechanism doing it. Seems to me though that for 45 or so Dollars for a new one brute force and ignorance makes more sense than the locksmith.



Regards


Pete

Pete;

That drilling solution will work, sure, but I still recommend trying to pick it first...they're not the most secure lock (and so not too difficult to pick) on this earth, and I prefer it to the brute force/destructive solution...and if you slip, things will never quite be the same! Besides, if Jim gets it picked and extracted (for say, $20 or even $40!), and then does find the key, he's still better off costwise, not having to buy a new/used replacement lock cylinder.

I guess I just would leave the destruction of good ole' Volvo parts as the LAST, not the FIRST resort.

Cheers

Yeah, but a bit of destruction is so satisfying every now and then;-)

Actually I agree with you, and I hate to see a dashboard butchered as many of them are when people start to lever at them. I guess I ought to work up the patience to pick one some time.



Regards


Pete

Some picking hints (only to be used when appropriate!)

- get a couple of tools
- a straight thin metal strip as long as the key is, about 1/3 as wide, and a little thinner - used to rake the tumblers by sliding in and out
- another tool to fit in the other side of the lock with a bend in it - used to slightly turn the lock towards the unlocked position

- the theory
- there are multiple pins that need to be in a precise position for the lock to turn, and only the key gets them all in the right spot at the same time
- however, due to manufacturing tolerances, wear, variability, etc when you turn the lock only one or two will actually engage and hold the lock closed
- when holding the lock closed they have friction - if you press that single tumbler down it will tend to click into its proper position and then be held open by the lock as it turns slightly to where the next tumbler catches it
- this allows you to release the tumblers one by one until they are all open, at which the lock just rolls open

- the practice
- use the right angled tool to GENTLY rotate the lock towards the unlocked position
- use the other tool by raking it in and out over the tumblers
- if you are making progress you will feel the tumblers clicking into position and the lock making tiny movements toward opening
- with any luck after 5 or 10 rakes the lock will release and open
- with bad luck you might fidget with it for an hour before giving up in disgust

The door keys from my old '63 Volvo 122 fit the ignition of my Uncle's 60-ish Land Rover. I forget how we discovered that. But there really aren't that many variations on the keys, especially on older locks with fewer tumblers.

Maybe try the Volvo dealer. Go in armed with title or reg.

You might be surprised how far back their recordds go.