I've got a hunch.... here are the symptoms:

My '83 245gl has had cold start problems since I bought it (about three months ago) - I would turn the key, it would fire for a few seconds, then die. I decided to ignore this problem... well this morning, as I am leaving my neighborhood, I stop at the stoplight, then procede to make a turn. The car dies in the turn. I pull over, unplug the AMM - starts right up, but the idle flutuates from 900-1100 rpm. Drove it to school and work today (probobly not the best idea.... i know) It stalled a few times, but it got me where I had to be.

I'll double check for vacuum a.s.a.p., but does this sound like an AMM problem?

has anyone ordered one from fcpgroton.com?

thanks as always!

- Michael

- '83 246gl

If you have a Haynes manual and a multimeter you can test the resistance of specified terminals. Can't recall the procedure offhand but I did get confirmation of a bad AMM using this technique. Replaced with used and bingo.

Good luck.

Kirk S.

using the bentley manuel AMM test, I am supposed to get a 2.5-4.0 resistance range between terminal 6 and 7. I got a 5.0+... sounds like enough evidence... time to buy a rebuilt AMM?

- thanks as always fellow bricksters.

- Michael
- '83 245gl

Read this for more about AMM testing.
-JSBB
--
'Those who are willing to give up freedom for a little safety deserve neither freedom nor safety.'

You still might be disappointed. I'd find the Volvo friendly shops in town, call them up and ask them if they could just test for AMM failure. They might simply put one they know to be working in. It's a gamble, but it could save you some money. And if it is indeed the AMM, you'll only lose what they charged to test.
-JSBB
--
'Those who are willing to give up freedom for a little safety deserve neither freedom nor safety.'

The 83 depends entirely on the ECT sensor for cold start enrichment, but these -002 AMMs aren't always "dead or alive" parts, they will exhibit degradation that can show up as a problem keeping it running during warmup before the oxy sensor is working. The trouble mimics false or unmetered air or partially blocked, dirty injectors.

The AMM is surely easiest to swap if you can find a known good one. If you can't it is best as Jarrod suggests to eliminate all the causes mimicking this lean warmup condition, i.e. vacuum leaks, dirty throttle body, incorrect base idle or TPS adjustment, injector seals, holey amm-to-throttle hose, bad ECT, manifold gasket.

When I suspect the AMM has degraded, I measure its output at rest-- ignition on but motor not running (POS II). Anything less than about 1.55V tells me the output at idle will not be enough to get the ECU to feed enough fuel to get it through warm up smoothly. Resting outputs as close to this as 1.45 meant the car was not going to start. Now, if I disconnect the AMM, the ECU knows the output is zero and gives me "limp-home" fuel.

Do you really have a 262? Bertone? How do you like it?

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Art Benstein near Baltimore

When you say "I measure its output at rest" where do you place the Voltmeter leads to measure output on the AMM?

Oh, if you are the same Jerry posting on the 86, you are the owner of an LH2.2 FI system; the pinouts and voltage output are different from those I was describing to the thread.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore

Pin marked "7" on the 6-pin AMM connector is the output of a -002, the metal housing is a good place to put the negative probe. The rubber boot is probably already ripped, but if not, be very careful pulling it off of the plug or it will fall apart, allowing moisture to contaminate the connector. Make sure the pins are clean and free of corrosion. Usually pin 9 is the one that turns green in the moisture (power). Fill the cavity with dielectric grease to keep the water out.

The pins can be released from the connector housing if you need to clean them. Use a stiff wire like a paper clip to depress the tang inserting it from the business end of the connector.


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Art Benstein near Baltimore

Yes, I really did have a 262 Bertone. I got nothing but compliments when people saw it. It was unique, that's for sure! If you're ever at IPD in portland, take a trip to the men's bathroom, on the left side of the urinal stall, you'll see a picture of the Bertone I had. I actually sold it to wroselli from here on the brickboard. He knows a lot more about bricks than I do - and as far as I know, he's loving it!

It was such a cool car!

Thanks for all the help!!

I'll be running some tests the 245 this weekend.

- Michael

- '83 245gl

- '80 262 Bertone (sold)

could be fuse(s), fuel pump(relay), connector at AMM...to name a few....check these out first.......
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http://www.fidalgo.net/~brook4/oilslubesfilters.html

AMMs are expensive. I'd try to troubleshoot more before I'd spring for one. Even a trip to a mechanic would be cheaper than just tossing in a new AMM. And a good Volvo mechanic might have an AMM lying around for testing.
-JSBB
--
'Those who are willing to give up freedom for a little safety deserve neither freedom nor safety.'