How difficult is it to change rear the pads on my wagon. I have never dealt with antilock brakes before. Is it pretty much the same as per non antilock brakes/

Thanks

James

James,

You absolutely SHOULD crack the bleeder as Chris indicates. Read the FAQ in the "features" drop-down at the top of this page for a more detailed explanation of why. But the bottom line is that it keeps "crud" from being pushed back through the line into the (very expensive) ABS unit. Plus it only takes about 5-seconds to do it -- pretty cheap insurance if you ask me.

Jeff Pierce
--
'92 Mercedes 190E (my daily driver), '93 945 Turbo (a kickass family car), '53 Willys-Overland Pickup (my snow-plow truck/conversation piece)

You don't have to open the bleeder to change the pads as indicated by last poster. Procedure for rear pads is same for ABS and non-ABS equipped cars.

It is virtually the same. The caliper is the same anyway.

When you compress the pistons, crack the bleeder off and let the fluid dribble out as you squeeze the pistons. It is better for the ABS modulator. I personally never pinch off the brake lines because I don't like doing it. Typically opening the bleeder allows enough fluid out, as it will automatically take the path of less resistance (which is to say, not UP to the ABS modulator--easier for it to just drain out of the bleeder).

The cleaner the brake fluid is, the better off you'll be. If it's filthy, you might have to pinch off the hose and drain the caliper as you compress it. The 700/900FAQ has good instructions.
--
Chris Herbst, in Wisconsin.