Well, this just started today, but my 1990 780 Turbo is having some serious issues.

On the way back from watching RiverFront Stadium implode, The engine lost all power and seemed to act as if it was not getting enough fuel, or flooding and 'bogged' down. The car would idle ok when first turned on, but when the gas was pressed, the engine would studder up to when the turbo gauge went into positive boost (the yellow bar) and then just drop. The gauge would rise depending on how hard I was pressing the gas, not the engine revs, but would never go into the turbo region. That is to say, the engine would be sputtering very hard and the turbo gauge would be rising. I was able to get the car into a nearby lot, but could not gas the engine at all, but instead drive with the car in idle. Help!

Interesting Note #1: This car just completed a 8 hr trip to and from nothern Michigan last week with absolutely no problems.

Instersting Note #2: The Turbo. It has been putting out about 0 PSI. It is not making any *alarming* noises, just a slight metal rattleing. Today my fiancee noticed a VERY large oil burning smell (hours before engine stopped).

Could it be that the turbo has seized, and is blocking engine exhaust gasses?

Bonus Question: Anyone know any good mechanics / shops in the Cincinatti Ohio area? I need to be going on another 7 hr trip in 1 week and do not have a good garage to work on this myself at.

Thanks in advance.

Just got a call from the shop I took it into. Apparently, the AMM meter *is* fried. 2.3 Ohm across 2 posts (should be 3.7) and 0 Ohm across another.


now, since I DID mistakenly unplug the AMM during operation, the service engine light came on. Mechanic relied heavly following the engine codes, so I am worried. Perhaps my problem is beyond the AMM, and I just screwed it up by disconnecting it. :(

Unfortunaly though, finding another AMM for the car is a different matter. He was only able to find another AMM aftermarket for $308.00...

Is that a reasonable price to pay for it, or should I just get the car back and attempt to find one myself (I don't think installation would be too hard on it ?).

Wow! 3 responses with 3 completely different areas of what to check. The sad thing is that it could be all 3 of them. It definitally feels like there is not a spark in the chamber 100% of the time, and I guess all those would do it.

Now, would the fuel delivery system cause the sputtering when I hit the gas? I am an idiot at this sort of stuff, but wouldn't the pump continue to put the same amount of pressure out?

If you do the AMM test be sure the ignition is off when you disconnect/reconnect the plug.

Does the car throw black (fuel rich) smoke when you try to accelerate? If so you might want to check all the hoses from the turbo outlet to the throttle body. Even a small split in the hose will open up under pressure (boost) and cause the car to bog as well as emit black smoke (small splits are very hard to find).

Just today I heard of a good shop on the East side of town- not far from Anderson township. It is a BP station but the mechanic is said to be a Volvo guy and a good one. If that is in your area let me know and I will try to get the name of the place for you.

Randy

Uh oh... I disconnected it while the engine was running (ohcr*p), and now the check engine light is on :(

What I did observe is that the engine ran very rough when the AMM was connected, and as soon as it was disconnected, started to idle around 1500 and was very smooth. Although, with the AMM off, I could not get the car to move, at least with the AMM connected, I can drift around at idle.

What did I do by disconnecting the AMM meter while the engine was running?

Also, sure, give me the name of the place and I can give him a call. Currently I am in Oxford, but the car needs to be towed wherever it goes, so might as well get to the best mechanic.

Thanks alot!

Not sure what you might have done by connecting/disconnecting- possibly nothing, it is just best to do it with the ignition off.

The name of the shop in Milford is Jessie's BP. The owner's name is Buddy and my information is that he is good with Volvos and Mercedes. The number is 513-831-0940. Of course that is at least 50 miles from Oxford.

Are you from Oxford? What about the shop behind WalMart near the railroad tracks- is the name of the street Spring? Zip's in Hamiltion has a good reputation; they are on B Street.

Email me at jrstarkie@att.net

Randy

I had the same thing happen to my 88 turbo. I went on a 6 hour trip (each way) to Kentucky and back with no problems. Then I packed up my car to got to school and it acted the same ways yours did minus the the metalic sounds. The car didn't have any power, it started hard, the turbo wouldn't go into boost on the gauge and only really was drivable at idle.
Have you tried letting the car sit for a day and then trying to drive it? After my car sat it started up and ran fine for a while. That's when I suspected the fuel filter. In my case, my main fuel pump was failing and my fuel filter was plugged (whether one caused the other I don't know) but I replaced the two and have had no problems since. When the car acted up, I tapped the cage that surrounds the fuel pump with my ice scraper, then the car ran fine. It would act up again, and I would tap (read bang) the fuel cage again and off I would go.

J.Studer
744t 236k

dont go doing that on a car with airbags...the sensor is down there and you can deploy the airbag...and thats expensive!

Sounds like the description of a plugged cat to me.
--
Richard Montgomery 83-244GL ; '90-780t; '92-940; '80-242DL

check the AMM. disconnect it. if the car runs worse with the AMM disconnected, that was not your problem.

if it makes no difference when you disconnect it, then that is your culprit.
--
Kenric Tam
1990 Volvo 740 base sedan (B230F)
My Volvo 'Project'