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This is pretty straightforward.
That fuel supply connection could use a squirt of PB Blaster of similat penetrant prior to your breaking it loose. Put a small wadded up cloth under the connection to catch any driping fuel.
Before this, though, start the engine then pull both fuses for the fuel pumps. This will let the engine starve but also depressurize the fuel delivery system.
The return line slips onto its nipple, but is held there with a fuel line spring clip (I hate these) I use a Channel Lock type pliers to squeeze these and slide it back up the line off the nipple flare. Some day I'll sop around for whatever special tool they use for these fasteneres.
Disconnect the stuff at the throttle body: throttle position switch connector; PCV tube; small vac line fron the flame trap; air intake bellows, two vacuum lines; top end of the throttle control linkage arm; etc. Leave the TB iself attatched to the intake manifold, unless you intend to remove it for cleaning.
Leave the fuel rail on until you get the intake manifold off. The manifold has eight (I think) nuts, 13mm. Some are hidden pretty well under the manifld. If the manifold doesn't pull off easily, you've missed one or more of these nuts.
To remove the fuel rail, of course, unclip each injector connector before removing the inftake/fuel rail.
Squirt a bit of penetrant at the base of each injector. This aids in pulling them out of the manifold. The injectors are held at their tops to the fuel rail with retainers. Use a thin screw driver to slide these off, of a needle nose pliers to pull them.
If you are replacing the injector seals, save the original spacers. the kits have spacers which are too thick. the kits also have three o-rings for each injector, but you'll use just two. I needed a thin screwdriver and/or a pliers to remove the plastic caps from the businedd end of the injectors. to install the new caps later, position it then push the injector against the workbench until the cap snaps into place.
A little synthetic petroleum jelly or a squirt of silicone lube on the o-rings helps the reassembly process.
The new intake manifold gaskets mat have an "ear" on the rear lower corner. I had to mark and cut off this thing to clear come large bolt head on the cylinder head.
I found that a $11 gallon of parts cleaner from AutoZone or similar place does a great job cleaning the throttle body. I remove the TPS first. The little o-ring is usually good. These are common plubimg rings and easily matched. In a pinch where I didn't have one, I have used RTV to seal the TPS/TB mating to prevent oil seepage there. Remove the plastic thrumb screw idle adjuster before dipping the TB into the parts cleaner.
Rinse everything off later with carb cleaner (not the TPS, of course)
The thumb screw housing has its own gasket where it mates to the TB. Don't know where to fnd this, so it's better to leave this tight. If the parts cleaner has softened it to the point where it may lean, just smear a bit of RTV all around that mating.
Install the thrumb screw before mounting the TB onto the intake manifold. It is harder to get in once it's all beck on the car.
The top rear 13mm nut holding the TB to the manifold comes off with a thin-walled box end wrench. Nothing else I have tried (socket, regular box end, etc) seems to clear the TSP which is so closeby.
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1989 740Ti 1986 240DL 1984 244GL
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