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adjusting camber on '84 245 200

Do any of you know how to adjust front wheel camber without tool 5038 (that triangle fixture thing that mounts to the top of the strut attachment points)? I assume the tool allows you to rotate the three points. Anyone know which direction corresponds to increasing negative camber? My right front wheel is wearing on the outboard edge significantly, and I can even eyeball the difference in camber between the left and right wheels.

Also, have any of y'all replaced your front control arm bushings yourselves? How difficult was pushing out/in the bushings?

Thanks!

julian








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    adjusting camber on '84 245 200

    I'm having the same difficulty Smitty describes with the rear bolt on the pass. side arm.
    My control arms are installed, but I have a clunking and I'd like to verify that I sufficiently torqued that rear bolt after bushing replacement (about 1 year ago).
    Has anyone come up with a way to do this in place?
    Joe








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      adjusting camber on '84 245 200

      You might try loosening then re-torquing the 2 crossmember bolts on that side. Also, check the sway bar link and of course the top nut on the strut. If the bushing bolt was pretty tight when you put it on, and the bushing was new, then chances are the bushing's not the source of the clunk.








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    adjusting camber on '84 245 200

    I can't speak to the camber adjustment, but the front A-arm bushing job was straightforward. Follow a good manual, but basically unhook the sway bar link and the ball joint, then unbolt the rear bushing mount, then finally the inner A-arm bolts.

    I did have a bit of a time unbolting the old rear bushing, so I ended up drilling out the rubber, and then unbolting with the help of a vise. I had a press available to me, so pressing out the old bushing was simple, but the thing which holds the bushing is just sheet metal, so be careful and support your work well. Due to A-arm geometry the front bushings could not be done in the press, but the vise (a big one) worked just as well.

    The only real PITA is that you supposedly have to re-mount the A-arm and all attachments and get the car on its wheels before final-torquing the rear bolts. This isn't too bad on the driver's side, but the exhaust downpipe obscures the passenger side, and I thought removing the pipe was too big a project. So I just aligned the bushing & support (rotationally) by eye and torqued it off the car before installing it.







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