1988 dl sw
B230F


Is there a trick to putting the timing belt on the lower pulley without taking the crank off and the plastic housing?

where do you get this special tool to hold the crank in place? Autozone?

Thanks for any input

No way that I know of. Why can't they make that lower cover in two pieces so you can leave the Crank pulley on?

--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwr and two motorcycles: it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me

Thanks for the info from everyone...I think for my peace of mind I'll have the tool built or buy one. The FAQs is a good place .... lots of info

I just did my timing belt and it was very simple. Go to FCPgroton.com or call and talk to Nick. The tool was a special order item and took about two weeks to get to me in Southern California.

Read the FAQ's on timing belts to learn of others "mistakes" you'll be fine. The tool, in my humble opinion, is worth it's weight in gold.

1988 240DL - 411,000+ original miles and goin' strong!

And if you have an automatic and don't want to buy (or build) the crank tool, don't forget the "rope trick." That also should be in the FAQs.
--
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)

Just completed timing belt, tensioner, water pump replacement on '88 240 (300K).
I used Mr. Foster's mentioned "rope trick" after trying to loosen crankshaft bolt with manual trans. in gear. Too much movement still. The nylon rope in no.1 cylinder worked perfectly, providing very solid stop to crank movement. Having that spark plug out also lessens effort needed to turn engine. Hardest part for me was moving the AC compressor enough to get belts off. Any tips for the future gratefully accepted.

I bought my special tool from baumtool.com, having the tool spilt the time required to complete the job in half.

--
'82 DL - 153k, '93 945 - 101k

If you are lucky enough to have a manual tranny, put the car in 4th and set the e-brake. Then use a breaker bar. On an automatic, you will have to jam the flex plate, but the tool (~$50 as I recall) from one of the specialty houses that carry it, or use the method listed below.
Remember to use the tic mark on teh edge of the distributor to set teh intermediate shaft. The belt marks are of no use when you can get the 3 critical marks identified and in place.

What I did was put a socket on there, resting the handle on a stout wood block.

Disconnect the coil, then turn the key on/off a couple times, the bolt will be loose.

I put the bolt back in by itself to set to TDC, then replaced belt.

BTW, the Conti's from FCP have the handy marks, or you can paint some white-out on the belt/pulley/block to leave a trail back if you turn something and panic.

I have thought about splitting the lower cover with a Dremel, but it isn't THAT hard to get the bolt off.

Trick is getting it back on as tight as it was...&^)

You do need to take off the plastic shield and crank pulley. I boyught my special tool at the local dealer (about $160 as I remeber). There are plans for a homemade tool here:
http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/SpecialTools.htm#B230FCrankHolderTool

Look around on that site for info on timing belt repair. The 740 and 240 engines are very similar.

I used a big pair of pliers with the handles stuck in the balancer. Then placed a prybar inbetween the handles and braced on the socket. This has the potential to be a real knuckel buster. Had to try a couple of different pliers before I found one that would hold steady.

Ed