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Inner Tie Rod Replacement-Need Advice 200 1981

1981 242: I've decided to replace the inner and outer tie rod ends on the passenger side. I have it all up on jackstands, wheels off, splash pan off, and passenger boot off. How do I safely get the inner tie rod end loose from the shaft it connects to without damaging anything? There is no locking plate or separate locking device with bend-over tabs holding the inner tie rod to the main steering shaft. The inner tie rod end is threaded onto the shaft, and about 1/4 inch of its circumference is crimped down onto the last couple of threads of the steering shaft. There are no flats on the steering shaft, at least not on the passenger side. I could try to hold it at the opposite end of the shaft if there is a good spot on the driver's side end. I haven't removed the driver's side boot, but I think it's set up the same on that side. If I hold the driver's side inner tie rod end by its flats while trying to loosen the passenger side inner end, won't both sides tend to loosen up if both ends have normal threads and not reverse threads? If this happens the torque would to straight to the steering shaft, which I don't want to happen. Does anyone know the right way to do this? Are the threads on both ends normal or is one reversed threads. I'm holding off and hopefully I'll hear from someone. I want to do this without damaging anything, especially the steering rack.
--
Thanks to everyone for the help, Doug C. 81 242 Brick Off Blocks, stock; 86 240, 129K








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Inner Tie Rod Replacement-Need Advice 200 1981

I took another good look under there. The inner tie rod ends are actually crimped onto the pinion shaft. There's a section on the top side of the shaft that has a depression in order to accept a crimp about 3/8 inch long. The edge of the inner tie rod connector is crimped down into this depression in the shaft for about 3/8 inch of its circumference. That appears to be all that is mechanically keeping the inner tie rod end from working loose from the shaft and causing a steering loss. There could also be some threadlocker of some kind on the threads. Anybody familiar with this?? How do you release the crimp? When unsrewing the tie rod end, it does appear that the only way to hold the pinion shaft from turning and applying undue pressure to something inside the steering rack will be to use a pipe wrench on the shaft. Any better way to do this? What would a good professional do?
--
Thanks to everyone for the help, Doug C. 81 242 Brick Off Blocks, stock; 86 240, 129K








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Inner Tie Rod Replacement-Need Advice 200 1981

Undo the crimp by hitting it with a hammer and cold chisel or screwdriver. Yes, that is all that is holding it from loosening. Once you do this you will probably be surprised at how easily it comes loose.

Ron Lynes
87 745 GLE








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Inner Tie Rod Replacement-Need Advice 200 1981

Thank you. Can you whack at it pretty hard without hurting the rack and pinion system? Is there a special way to crimp the new one onto the shaft? Do people use threadlocker glue on the threads, also? The driver's side doesn't even have a crimp.?.?
--
Thanks to everyone for the help, Doug C. 81 242 Brick Off Blocks, stock; 86 240, 129K








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Inner Tie Rod Replacement-Need Advice 200 1981

Do not hold the driver's side to loosen the passenger's side - you will damage something. Both threads are normal direction. Once you uncrimp that which is crimped or bent over it should come apart easily with a pipe wrench on one side and an adjustable on the other.








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Inner Tie Rod Replacement-Need Advice 200 1981

Hi Doug --

Each inner tie rod has a rather-indistinct set of flats used for just this purpose. Get a good worklight down there, maybe clean the inner tie rods off, and you'll see it. Put an adjustable crescent wrench on the inner tie rod flats, squirt pentrating oil onto the outer tie rod threads, and use a wrench to turn the outer tie rod out of the inner tie rod. If that doesn't work you can use vice grips on the inner tie rod: it is solid, as I remember. And I also remember a lock nut threaded on the outer tie rod and snugged against the inner tie rod -- loosen the lock nut first. Makes things much easier.

Yelp if that doesn't work, and I'll take a look at my '81 to remind me what I did when I replaced front/rear suspension last summer. It wasn't too hard: I think you can do it.

...Sure hope you've got a garage to work in. Don't think I'd like to replace the tie rods in the winter snow...
--
-- Bruce / '82 244 (315k miles!), '86 745, '87 760Ti, '94 854








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Inner Tie Rod Replacement-Need Advice 200 1981

I see the flats on the inner tie rod end, but I'm still a little confused. The only locknut is the one that is threaded onto the wheel end of the inner tie rod where the inner tie rod threads into the outer tie rod end. That one I'll definitely loosen first. The step that is unclear to me is how to release the inner tie rod end from where it threads over the end of the steering shaft. How do I hold the shaft securely without any damage to the shaft or the steering gears? By steering shaft, I mean the straight shaft that has gear notches on the bottom of it and goes through the steering box. I think it's called the pinion shaft, but I'm not sure. And yes, I do have a garage with heat, which I love. Thank you. I'll look forward to hearing more.
--
Thanks to everyone for the help, Doug C. 81 242 Brick Off Blocks, stock; 86 240, 129K








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Inner Tie Rod Replacement-Need Advice 200 1981

I just lock pliers to the joint (tie rod) and put a boot to the pliers to break them free. No problems yet.








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Inner Tie Rod Replacement-Need Advice 200 1981

Thanks for the response. So you don't hold the steering shaft while you loosen the inner tie rod where it connects to the shaft? I was afraid that I might damage something inside the steering box.
--
Thanks to everyone for the help, Doug C. 81 242 Brick Off Blocks, stock; 86 240, 129K








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Inner Tie Rod Replacement-Need Advice 200 1981

Yes, you hold it - with a pipe wrench if I remember correctly.







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