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Where to obtain brake caliper bushings to rebuild Girling calipers? 700 1989

FINALLY!! I tracked down the annoying rattling from the front end..it was not the brake pad springs being broken, it was not the dust shield...it is the actual Girling caliper!
I have recently replaced the sliding bolts with a kit from FCPGroton and have installed new PBR pads. All bushings also replaced with urethane ones.
Upon putting the car up on a lift and knocking on the tire yet holding onto the caliper with my hand, the rattling stopped. I can actually jiggle the caliper on its mount.
Refering to the Volvo OEM (green) Brake service manual, it shows some bushings that the sliding bolts ride in...but where to get these except the dealer?? Could someone give me the dimensions so my friendly machine shop operator can turn two of these brass(?)bushings..
GIA,
el raidman








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    For the Girling (Lucas) Type I dual piston calipers used in 1989, guide pin and guide pin bushing wear can cause brake rattling. Volvo documented this in TSB 51907. Volvo has a kit p/n 271854-2 which includes guide pins with integral bushings, dust seals and mounting bolts. FCP Groton can order it in for you. You'd have to ask them if the parts can be ordered separately. I wouldn't think it was worth the effort or the safety risk of a seized caliper to machine your own. You'll have enough entertainment pressing the bushings out and back in. BTW The bushings would be steel. Note that the upper/lower guide pins are slightly different (kit has colour coded pins) and the order is different side to side (left upper is black pin, lower is yellow; right upper is yellow, lower is black). Make sure you thoroughly clean out the guide pin bores and re-pack fully with high temp silicone brake grease (should come with the kit). Everything should be torqued to spec: Guide pin bolts 22 ft-lbs. Caliper bolts 77 ft-lbs. Lug nuts 66 ft-lbs.

    While you're at it, check the rotors for runout and thickness. Apart from pulsing, a warped rotor might aggravate caliper rattling. The minimum thickness will be stamped on the back of the rotor (ventillated rotor should be something like .788", a non-ventillated would be .433"). The runout (at approx 5/8" from the outer edge) is .003" max. If the runout is less than about .007" then you may be able to reduce it by shimming the back side with unwrinkled foil sheets around at least two studs. I don't see a spec for disk thickness variability, but certainly it should not be more than .0012" max. Resurfacing (turning) a worn rotor isn't worth it.

    Hope that info helps you



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