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I agree with Robert, I've seen those symptoms with a bad AMM. I'm a little surprised the Check Engine light is on without any codes being stored, but that doesn't really matter. One of the fastest ways for you or your mechanic to diagnose a no-start due to a faulty AMM is to pull the connector off the AMM (with the ignition off). This will force the ECU to use "limp home mode". If the engine now starts then the AMM is almost certainly the problem. One common cause for a failed AMM is overheating when the pre-heat flap in the air box is stuck open. The flap sticks open when the little thermostatic piston in the flap assembly fails. Have your mechanic check that the air flap closes when the car is fully warmed (in winter it's best to take the air box indoors and use a hair dryer on it). Rather than replacing the thermostat, a lot of people simply disconnect the pre-heat hose. To avoid a discussion with any vehicle inspectors it might be better to leave the hose connected, but screw the air flap shut so it won't be noticed. Unless you drive a lot under cold conditions, neither you nor any testing system will likely notice a difference.
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