I was reading the "Front Rotor" post and the answers make me think that I have missed something (wouldn't be the first time).

On my '91, there are two metal brake lines that wrap around the strut and up to a clip on the side of the strut. From the clip, hoses go over to the car body.

I have not been able to figure out how to release that clip without breaking the line apart, and even if I did, it doesn't look like it would get me very far.

Bottom line, it doesn't look to me like I could move the caliper more than a half inch without kinking the metal brake lines.

Are other models designed differently? Or am I overlooking the obvious?

Manolo

Aye roll speaks from experience..there is PLENTY of flex in the brake line..it was intentionally wrapped around the strut for precisely that reason..the only potential problem is undue tension on the fittings..which would result from not using the hanger to suspend the caliper while you change the rotor..again, as per Aye roll's instructions..

You won't kink the brake lines. They're quite flexible. Get a coat hanger before hand and bend it so it'll hang on the spring. You'll remove the two caliper mounting bolts, lift the caliper up, off, and back a little and then hang it on your hook. Remove the rotor, install new, slide the caliper back on and tighten. It's not even as hard as it sounds. You don't even need to touch those 2 clips on the strut.
The lines are quite long acutally, they wrap around the bottom of the strut so they have a lot of flex in them. Pressing the brake pads back with a pry bar or screwdriver will make it easier since the caliper can be angled a bit.
You'll see- it'll work. This is all the shops do.
Good luck!
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Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: 86 244DL, 87 244DL, 88 744GLE, 91 244: 808K total

I use needle nose pliers to work the clip under the bracket. Do one side of the clip at a time and rotate the clip as you work it. It's a PITA and if you cuss a lot, it can be done!