Thanks for the feedback on a previous post about a weird noise after replacing the timing belt and tensioner. Findings: My brand new Scan Tech tensioner was making the siren noises. I put the old one back in, which I had replaced as preventative maintenance, and the engine sounds as good as ever. No more sirens. Is this type of thing common with Scan Tech? Any recommendations of good manufacturers I can count on? I'll be doing the t-belt on my daughter's 86 soon.
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Thanks to everyone for the help, Doug C. 81 242 Brick On Blocks, stock; 86 240, 129K

Hello once again .... Call me cheap but I have never replaced my tensioner on my 1982Turbo w/250K. I've always checked it thoroughly and added high quality lube over the years, but it's still as tight or tighter than the new one's I considered installing. I have a low mileage used replacement ready to install when my original feels bad. I feel the original bearing quality on my 82 is better than todays replacements! Volvo quality in 82 was better than anything I've ever owned. I'm still running original U-joints w/a shot of high quality lube at service intervals. The 240 series was built to last a lifetime with proper maintence. But a neglected 240 is expensive to put back into proper condition. Often replacement parts are POOR quality and should be checked carefully before installing! New doesn't always mean Good. You the installer become quality control!!!! Later Gary

Hi,

Exactly how do you lube it and with what lubricant? I was afraid to lube mine because I didn't see any lube fittings. I was afraid that whatever lube I could squirt it there might just come back out and end up all over the belt.
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Thanks to everyone for the help, Doug C. 81 242 Brick Off Blocks, stock; 86 240, 129K

I posted a couple of months ago about a Scan-Tech tensioner that failed on my own car after about 18 months. It seemed to run dry and all of the ball bearings fell out. I put another one in, but I am not so sure about their quality anymore.

Last year I had trouble with a Scan Tech overdrive solenoid. I installed a new Scan Tech solenoid and the thing had a catastrophic failure and blew apart after only being on the car for 6 weeks. I will never again purchase a Scan Tech part. I went to the junkyard and grabbed a used Volvo solenoid and the thing is working perfectly 20,000 miles later.

I have never bought a cam belt tensioner from Volvo. The aftermarket ones have been fine. The one in my hand is German made, INAF brand and part number 218999. I have had a factory tensioner bearing seize on a water cooled VW. The cam timing belt burnt up and brake, and two exhaust valves were bent.

Thanks. I checked the new "Scan Tech" that sounded like a siren on my car. It's the same INAF 218999 Germany. Was yours sold by Scan Tech or someone else under a different name? Maybe this failure was a fluke rather than an indication of INAF quality. Have you used this tensioner many times?
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Thanks to everyone for the help, Doug C. 81 242 Brick Off Blocks, stock; 86 240, 129K

I have used this cam tensioner several times and never had trouble. Chris Herbst reported using it many times without trouble.

The tensioners I've been getting are Ruville, also German I believe. No sirens yet...
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Art Benstein near Baltimore

I had a Toyota external wp/alt belt tensioner sieze at like 60K miles.....wwoooo what a stink!! No harm...Toychoda wanted like $100. Plus a new belt..

I got a new bearing at Bearings Inc, for less than $5 pressed it in....
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www.fidalgo.net/~brook4

Those are the ones I use too--never a single problem (as you can imagine I've installed a ton of them).

I had stated I was using Scan Tech tensioners, but I wasn't actually. unless they are boxing the same product.
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chris herbst, near chicago

"I had stated I was using Scan Tech tensioners, but I wasn't actually. unless they are boxing the same product."

As near as I can tell ScanTech doesn't make much (if anything) of what they sell. It appears they buy from the manufacturers, re-package and sell to the consumer.

That's what I thought too.

Which basically means that some of their products could be crap, but it doesn't apply to everything. I've just been seeing these all-inclusive statements that say 'scan tech parts suck' (well, not verbatim) and I haven't found that to be the case in all respects.
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chris herbst, near chicago

I've had three bad Scan Tech parts in the last year. They also would not reply
to my emails. I've also had good parts from them. But the parts that were
bad are sometimes just ridiculous stuff like a front hood cable that doesn't come with the locking washer for the hole in the firewall. That is inexcusable.
A 2 cent piece of hardware that you have to goto the dealer to get and pay
another 5 bucks. Now you spent the price of the cable from Volvo anyway. Since
that one comes with all the hardware. Oh well. Sometimes it's all cheese.

Dave 82 242ti

Did you also do your seals??? How tough of a job was it ??? My shop wants 4 hrs at 70 hr to do it plus parts.

Yes. I recommend it if you have some patience and don't mind going slowly and want to learn.

Prices from Groton: TRW T-belt and three Scan Tech seals 13.00; Hepu water pump if needed 33.00; tensioner if needed 45-80 if you don't get the 22 dollar Scan Tech like I did. Shipping 6.00. Seal carrier from dealer about 10.00. Red RTV sealant 5.00?

I recommend removing the valve cover and front cam cap to remove and install the cam seal. Also, I'm glad I removed the seal carrier to remove and install the crank and intermediate shaft seals. It gave me a great opportunity to learn something and clean the front of the engine all up. Great time to replace drive belts if they are old or in bad shape. Before removing any seal, take careful note of exactly how far the old ones are seated into their bores. This could be important in deciding how far to seat the new ones if you find the shafts grooved. Do not simply drive the new seal on a little farther than the old one was without thoroughly cleaning the place the new seal will ride on the shaft. In my case, had I simply driven the seal onto the crank a little farther than the old one, the new seal would have ended up riding on a dirty cruddy surface. By taking the seal carrier off, you can easily inspect and clean the crank and intermediate shaft and make an informed decision as to how far to seat the new ones. Also, be gentle moving the wiring that runs along the seal carrier out of the way in case it's old and brittle.

Good luck. Holler if you need help.
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Thanks to everyone for the help, Doug C. 81 242 Brick On Blocks, stock; 86 240, 129K

Front Oil seals aren't that hard to do. It just takes motivation and time and a warm, dry day (or few). Someone recently did their seals. I think they'd recommend you trying it. I do, especially since you've got an '81. (Book value may be less that cost of seal replacement). Consider it. There should be lots of advice available here.

Strange. I've used those for a long time and they're usually fine.

Suddenly there has been this rash of scan tech problems. more than I've seen mentioned in the past.
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chris herbst, near chicago

Correction to above post.

I use the ones John Sargent is using. Mine are sourced from a jobber supply place out west.
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chris herbst, near chicago

scantech strikes!

getavolvo or better....
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www.fidalgo.net/~brook4

SCAN TECH Parts are known to Be 'dodgy'...let your supplier know you are pisses..if we all do..things 'may' improve...glad you got it sorted..Dee Jay