This isn't about my Volvo, but you guys know your stuff about cars better than most people on other message boards I frequent.

I have a '98 New Beetle, and sunday I was lowering the engine to do a timing belt swap, and a part on the engine caught an AC line and bent the high pressure return line slightly.

Anyway, this broke a weld on a bracket that is welded to the line.

instant decompression of my system, loss of refrigerant, etc.

What I'm looking for here is advice on how to fix the problem I have a couple of illustrations of the condenser and my leak.

The affected area is along this metal bracket that the condenser tube is welded to.


My leak is shown here:



it's just a hairline fracture on the tubing where that metal nbracket is welded to it.

I called the two radiator shops in town and none of them would touch it, saying 'that's high pressure ac lines.. we don't do that"

well, if a wussy weld like that held before, why can't brazing?

I guess I'm looking for advice on anywhere to call to try and have it fixed.

Because a total replacement of the condenser is going to cost 700 dollars!!!

(700 dollars I don't currently have to my name, mind you)

Thanks for any advice. Sorry about the non-volvo content, but it's a universal car issue. :)

In other news, my '91 244 is for sale if any of you are interested in a great car for a decent price: $3800 to brickboard readers.

http://www.whiteboard.net/~luke/volvo/
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Luke Healey

If there is enough straight tube on either side of the fitting, you may be able to cut the fitting flange off each tube and use the appropriate Swagelok (R) fitting to join the tubes to each other.

Where I work we do this all the time on auto A/C systems for testing and if the fittings are installed according to directions they will stay leak tight indefinitely.

Call around to "A/C and refrigeration supply" houses in the nearest large metro area to see what they have.

The downside of this is that the line that was not damaged will now be non-standard and if for any reason you decided to go back to original condition you would have to replace the line.

This is a very good option. basically I want a piece of the rubber hose with the aluminum endcaps to patch in to replace the busted up elbow.

The dealership wants 850 dollars to do this repair!

(new condenser, refill + labor to remove front bumper, etc...)

My ulcer is acting up ...

So anyway, i REALLY could patch in a piece of ac line, but I have to find somoene willing to do it.

The shops around here all act as if it is impossible, when the whole condenser is fine, aside from the tiny piece at the end of the hookup to the compressor line.

It's VERY frustrating to me :) I will check into the Swagelok fitting hose.
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Luke Healey

I'll second the suggestion; put briefly, Swagelok rules!

I was first exposed to the fittings while working in the nuclear industry; holds leak-free under high pressure, joints are capable of being disconnected & reconnected with no loss of sealing capability, and they come in a staggering array of sizes (metric and inch) & materials (nylon, PTFE, brass, aluminium, carbon steel, stainless steel, titanium, etc.) The fittings use a 2-piece ferrule, made to exacting specs; no torque is placed upon the tubing when installing.

They also have various adapters, hoses, etc. The hoses are either teflon with a 340 stainless steel overbraid (may be too porous for A/C over the long term) or corrrugated 316L stainless steel with a 321 stainless steel overbraid; order with tube fittings on both ends, and you'll be able to attach it to the existing tubing after cutting out the bad section (assuming you have sufficent straight sections of tubing to attach it to). Custom hoses may be pricey, but will be much less than what the dealer wants to charge you!

The website is www.swagelok.com; I'm fortunate enough to live not far from a regional supplier, so I make extensive use of the stuff (even have a hard-copy catalog). I'm not sure if you can order direct from the web site; if not, get the part numbers you need, then try Denver Valve & Fitting at 303-232-8844. (No connection except being a happy customer...)

Follow the installation instructions as given (nut finger-tight, then one and a quarter more turns to seat the ferrule); overtightening them will gain nothing, and may cause galling & subsequent leaks.

Volvo content: I use Swagelok fittings on the oil lines to & from the ultra-filtration oil bypass filter on my 740 (no leaks, no worries).
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Tom Harper ('86 740GLE, NØMKC)

Not a hose, it's a metal fitting. There's a ferrule that slips over the tubing, and the end of the ferrule sticks into the main body of the fitting. There's a nut that crushes the ferrule radially down onto the OD of the tube. (Obviously the OD of the tube has to be clean and free from large scratches.) What you would want is one of these with the fitting's ID equal to the tube OD on either side of the flanged joint where the broken weld is.

They sell something similar in the hardware store called "compression fitting". You can look at these if you want to see what a Swagelok basically looks like. But don't attempt to use the ones you buy in the hardware store for plumbing, on an A/C system. You need the actual Swagelok brand if you want it to seal and hold up to the vibration.

I'm sure Swagelok has a website.

Unfortunately being aluminum, it's a TIG or heli-arc weld. Kind of a specialty. You may yet find a machine shop or welding shop to do it. I don't know. Try to get it as clean as possible for them, and remove it obviously so they can get to all sides of the part.
I don't know how much success they'll have. As noted it is high pressure. Whoever does it for you deserves a case of beer plus his fee, for trying such a tricky repair.

Anyway, FCP Groton carries the parts for ALL import vehicles, so I'd bet they can get these at a pretty good discount as well. They get what? $200 for a Volvo condenser- Volvo lists them at $450 or so. There may be similar savings for your VW.

Good luck.
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Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: "Roterande Fläkt Och Drivremmar!"

Thanks :) you give me hope at least that someone might try to fix it.

I'm going to call the machine shops in town or the welding shops.


I might remove the bracket if possible with a dremel and prep the area so I can have it done with easily.

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Luke Healey

All I can say is, keep calling around. Someone does aluminum welding, and someone will do it for cheap.

I think it's more a matter of hitting the right radiator shop than anywhere else. I have a place that I use, and they are REALLY nice. They'll do just about anything, including rescues of aluminum hose ends like that. Keep calling. You'll probably find a place.

If you can't find a place, I think the condenser replacement price is way too expensive. The condenser is a crash part and therefore is probably easily available on the aftermarket from TKY or one of the big body supply places.

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chris herbst, near chicago