Car has never had a high idle when it stared(in the ywo years I've owned it). I improved it somewhat by cleaning throttle body and idle motor and doing tune-up.
But if you start car, run one mile to store, come out and try to start, you must give the car gas to get it to start. Then you must give it gas to keep it going, until it warms up to full operating temperature.
Any solutions? Daughter will soon be taking car to college, and I want to get it in good shape first.

Hello,

With 99.9 % certainty I can say it's the Air Mass Meter at fault. Do a search on the subject, someone posted the proper resistance values to test it a while back.

Happy Bricking

Richard

87 245 DL 349,000 km
82 242 GLT 121,000 km

I have the same symptoms on my 93 245. I've replaced all the sensors, the ECU, plugs wires cap, etc., and the AMM (all for other reasons) and still have the problem. It only occurs when restarting the engine after it has been running for a while. It goes away after reving it up a bit for 30 seconds or so. I also ensured there are no vacuum leaks. My guess is that it's a fuel issue and I suspect that it may be a leaky fuel injector. I'm going to check that out this weekend.

What do you think about the temperature sensor that feeds ifo to the engine computer? Could it be sending that the temp is up higher than it is?

It's pretty easy to check - see the Bentley manual. It involves checking the resistance at hot and cold temps. I don't think that would be your problem, because it would then be a problem any time the engine was at that temperature - not just when you restarted it.

It might be like that for a while after its started, but from where I live, it hardly ever would have a chance to idle until it warmed up, because it's moving.

I don't have a Bentley manual. Is that information in the Haynes? Do you take it out and look for a certain resistance at a certain temperature?

Is this under the intake manifold?

The info is also in the Haynes manual, but if you're going to work on your car, then get the Bentley - it's MUCH better. You don't need to remove the ECT to do a quick check on it. You check the resistence at the ECU, but I've forgotten what terminal it is - check the manual. For a more thorough test, you can remove the ECT, suspend it in water, and gradually increase the temperature and note the change in resistance. You can then check the values against the graph in the manual. But note that there are two different ECTs - an earlier and a later model. If you have the LH 2.4 (or maybe any LH), you have the later model, but I think the graph in the manual is for the earlier model.