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Quote: "Fluid level is fine though it is dirty and I haven't changed it in a while (did find out the drain plug is hopelessly stuck, so it seems the only way is going to be the trans cooler line flush)."
I would strongly recommend against this. Depriving the moving parts of the transmission from fluid by disconnecting the cooling hose could potentialy cause some damage, and with the tranny already at a questionable stage, this could be bad.
Secondly, it's a good idea to remove the transmission pan when changing the fluid as you will also have the chance to clean the metal shavings and old clutch-band material from the pan. Trust me, it's an ugly sight, especially if it hasn't been cleaned in more than 100,000 miles. Wipe your finger on the inside of the pan, you'll see what I mean. Also be sure to clean the magnet that's in the pan too, this is intended to 'catch' the metal shavings of the clutch-bands as they wear, but it gets loaded very quickly and is too small of a magnet for the application. (my Pontiac's magnet is about 4 times the size and significantly stronger)
If I were in your position, I'd try removing and cleaning the pan, then filling the tranny fluid with the regular Valvoline Dexron 3, run the car 5 miles, drain again, and then fill with Valvoline Durablend Dexron 3. -and repeat again with Durablend after another 1,000 miles. This should help purge much of the old fluid out of the system. (the Durablend will help your seals, improve cold weather performance, and provide better chemical stability when overheated)
Note to all those wondering how to change the transmission fluid all at once: You can't. This is not possible, even with the 'cooler line disconect method.' The reason is that your Torque Converter holds about 5+ quarts and it doesn't drain when you drain the pan or simply stop the flow of fresh fluid. It's like a giant donout standing on end. To completely drain a torque converter, you need to drill a 1/8" hole in a very precise spot on the outer edge. You would only want to do this if you got antifreeze mixed with your transmission fluid and wanted to re-use your torque converter. (since engine coolant will destory the seals and clutch band adhesives in no-time flat, we're also assuming a tranny rebuild here)
If you take it to a transmission shop to have the fluid 'flushed,' here's what they do. They put the vehicle up on a hoist, remove the transmission pan, then they put an adapter up to the filter inlet and pump fresh tranny fluid into the pumpbody while running the car. Some/most of the torque converter fluid will get purged in this manner, but not all of it. With the engine running and fresh fluid flowing, the dirty fluid from the transmission and torque converter will drain back and will fall into a collection pan (in place of your tranny pan) and they'll just wait until the fluid color improves enough to be considered 'flushed.' They just wait until it look's clean an then stop, bolt the pan back on with a new gasket, and top off the fluid. They usually use about 12 to 16 quarts to do this, but you still can't get "all" the fluid fushed, just most of it.
Lastly, if you do end up having to replace the transmission, I'd check if it's possible to install a AW-70L in place of your AW-70. The 'L' version means that it uses a lockup torque converter which engages when you are up to cruising speeds. This will give you the same gas mileage as a stickshift/manual transmission when at cruising speeds. The AW-70L and AW-71L were used in all 240s starting sometime in '88 or '89 and all cars after that. (this should improve your gas mileage by 5% or more depending on your driving habits)
Good luck with your 'operation.' God bless,
Fitz Fitzgerald.
'87 Blue 245 with a AW-70 that I'm considering swapping to a AW-70L.
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