Okay, I lined up the cam marks and the crank mark to the line on the block and the #4 & #3 are close to TDC and #1 is half way dwn. did I miss TDC on #1 and need to rotate the crank a few more turns? The head is off and I need to turn the crank and clean the cyl. so should I go back like this or shopuld I have #1 at TDC? There are no timing marks on the harmonic balance and I didnt check #1 for TDC before I pulled the head. I just lined up the crank mark and the cam marks and pulled the head. Whats the deal here?

There is a small notch on the back side of the timing belt 'cog' which is used for alignment. It's a little hard to see. The timing belt cover has two 'arrows' on it which are used for camshaft alignment.

You are very brave to remove the head on the car. It's multilayered and uses glue to seal two of the sections together.
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Warren Bain - '99 V70GLT G-Valve > 70K mi, '96 965 >110Kmi Wifemobile near Manassas Va.. Check the 700/900 FAQ via the 'features' pull down menu.

Done read all the brickbrd stuff before I started and the removal process was not that bad and after talking with a shop guy I think I can handle the asseambly process also. Not brave, just poor and do not have 1300 plus machine shop wrk. Anyway I will look for that notch. What i lined up to was a raised line across the bak of the serpintine pully. I will look for that notch on the timing belt cog when i roll the crank around to clean the cyl's. thanks guys...

What about the gluing procedure for the two parts of the head? The FAQ's do not talk about the head R&R procedures for the six cylinder engine.

One of the unique things about the volvo white engine is the lack of gaskets, the block is made up of three sections and the head is made up of two sections. It is a machine fit between these sections except for the joint between the head and block, which has the usual head gasket. There is a volvo part number for a sealant between all of these mating surfaces. This sealant is somewhat runny and hardens up like a glue. The most difficult part for me was the cleaning of these surfaces, it had to take four hours just for the head surfaces, you have to be meticulous about getting the old sealant off and removing any oil film and not using too much sealant as that can block some of the oil passageways to the lifters and cams. This can make for a very strong but light weight block that is not prone to oil leaks. To me anyways, it shows some engineering and machining accomplishments. As gaskets sometime are just an excuse for poor machining or planning.

DanR 94 964 218k miles
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DanR

He does need to glue the sections together otherwise he's going to have a BIG mess. I hope he has the proper Volvo manual for that.
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Warren Bain - '99 V70GLT G-Valve > 70K mi, '96 965 >110Kmi Wifemobile near Manassas Va.. Check the 700/900 FAQ via the 'features' pull down menu.

YES. I have bought the parts from a nice in tallahassee at voltech and she is advising me on putting the head back together. I aint ask her about the TDC and cam timing yet. She did say they put the head back together without that special little press. Hey if they have done it like that then i can to. So far I have been impressed with this little motor. And Yes I have thought those little oil passages and them having dirt and or glue in them and puming that crap straight to the cam bearing. Any tips on on that other than Q tips?

I did not have any of the special tools either, it would have made things easier and quicker though. Be real careful on cleaning the old sealant off, us hard plastic or wood. Just take you time. Any other questions just ask. One other thing, on reassembly, remember the ground strap on the drivers side engine mount, while you are there clean that connection.

DanR 94 964 218k miles
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DanR

I clean everything esp elec. connections and grds. The head is in the shop and will be super clean when it comes back and I will still clean it with alcohol. Monday I will call the voltech lady and ask her about those timing marks. So far everything looks real cool. Be sure and watch Aaron Yates on speedchannel today. Superbike race #2 from fontana. he finish 2nd yesterday and I hope the hometown boy wins today....

Yes A valve job due to broke and burned valves due to gummed and varnished stems from regular oil. the car was using a qt every 300 miles but a cleaning treatment corrected that. The cyl. appear to be okay but I need to rotate the crank to clean and check. It wasnt as bad as I thought it would be to get the head off. Must be swedish engineering...

The head is off, correct? TDC for the number one cylinder is when the piston is at the top of the cylinder. Turning the crank one revolution will only bring it back to TDC. If you are worried about moving the crank to get access to clean go ahead and move it. Just line up TDC, then mark the crank pulley, just before puttint the head in place. I did this on mine about 3 years ago, my crank did not have any marks either, I think they just corroded away. Line up the pistons first, then when installing the head use the marks on the plastic cover to time the valves to the pistons. After you have the timing belt back on turn the engine over by hand about 4 revolutions just to make sure your timing correct. Did you have the cam holder or did you just take it apart, hopefully you marked the slots where the timing belt gears attach to the cams.

What caused you to tear it apart? Are you doing a valve job?

DanR 94 964 218k miles
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DanR

I didnt remove any more than was need to get the head off. The cam gears are still on the cams. They were not in the way and even to put on a seal they still dont need to come off. This engine is real easy to wrk on....