Car: 240 91' 196k
Parts: Replaced new battery already. Same syptoms.
I have had this car for only a week and want to fix any problems.

My battery was replaced a few days ago and it is still not keeping a good charge. It all started when I killed the orginal battery by leaving the lights on.

I drove the car most of the day, and when parked I left it idle for a few minutes until finally it died. It will not turn over until I jump it. However it may start a few times after driving it (low charge).

Also a belt(s) squeek (on acceleration only) since I got it. Is the alternator shot, or is maybe just the alternator belt bad? The belts look like they need replacement.

Thanks in advance for the beginners help!

Matt

I ran in circles some years ago on my 74 144 with similar symptoms (battery won't charge). Replaced EVERYTHING along the way hunting down the root cause. End result was the ground cable from the battery had corroded at the point where it attached to the body frame. It was just enough to insulate it from making contact. Cleaned it up and all was well for years.

Now, its one of the first things I do when diagnosing electrical problems.
--
94 Red 850 Turbo wagon, 87 245GL, 74 144

Greg nailed the belt part.

To generate electricity your alternator must have more things OK than the belts.

Check visually for (1) thin red wire coming from under-the-engine harness is well connected to a spade lug on back of alternator. (2) Ground wire from under one of the alternator frame bolt nuts to one of the bolts holding the mounting bracket to the block.

If those two wires are OK, check the brushes. They are mounted in a unit on the back of the alternator, sort of a diamond-shaped thing. Takes two bolts to hold them in. Used to be Philips, yours may be Torx type.

Removal can be done with the alternator on the car. Easier if you have the heat shield removed and also the oil filter - like while you are doing an oil change.

The brushes should be 5mm, 3/16inch, to give good connection. If shorter, get new ones. The brush+voltage regulator unit is, IMO, a dealer item. It is possible to replace just the brushes. Takes some bench work for soldering them in. I bought some from alloemparts.com for like $2 per set.

The charging current from the alternator come out through the big red wire attached to the stud on the alternator back. That wire goes to the starter which is then direct to the battery. Hot all the time.

It seldom goes awry. The only thing I know of is chafing on the under-engine harness by the metal tabs that hold the harness in place. Worth a look, if you're down there for some other reason. Requires removal of the gravel shield.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)

Do the simple (and cheap) stuff first. Tighten the alternator belts so they don't squeal. It's a PITA but if they're in bad shape, then it's time to change all the drive belts... a full set is very reasonably priced at fcpgroton.com.

Do all the dash warning lights come on when you switch the ignition on (but stop short of cranking)? If the "alt" light is out you could have a bad charging system and not know it. If you have a meter, measure the system voltage at the battery while the car is running. - should be about 13.5 to 14.5 volts. If it's lower, check the condition of the battery cables, especially at the ends. Connections should be bright and shiny. Also check the wires at the back side of the alternator for integrity.

Since you confess to being a beginner, here's a safety tip: Before messing around with any electrical stuff, disconnect the battery with the GROUND SIDE FIRST. By interrupting the ground, that way when your wrench shorts between the positive battery terminal and the fender as you disconnect it, you won't have a 200-amp welding demonstration. Make a note (the written type) of any wiring connection as you disconnect it. That saves getting grease on your keyboard when you frantically type an SOS to the Brickboard looking for help because you took apart your revomometer spark thingy and can't figure out which leads go where...

Work patiently (as if I should talk...) and deliberately. A Bentley manual is you best friend. Ask questions... and dig thru the archives. Read the 700/900 FAQ's since a lot applies to the 200 drive train.

Good luck, and post back with your findings.

Losten the holding nut at the alternator and then turn the small nut (10mm ?) until the belts are lose and slide off. Now check to se of the alternator turns freely. If it seems lose and can be easily turned by belt power then put back the belts and tighten until it should not slip. This rules out the seized alt and loose belts. While the engine is idling take a peak to ensure the alt is actually tuning and belts are not slipping. Rev the engine and make sure it follows. Do not get your fingers in there or they will get torn off.

Alternater brushes? Not sure about that... Someone else can reply to it.

You might also wat to check the wire contact to the alternator. Costs nothing.

Greg Mustang
Montreal-Ottawa
Canada