Volvo RWD 140-160 Forum

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144s 140-160

What range of prices can expect to find a early 70s 144s? I am looking at one that has a few rust spots, good engine, excellent enterior and needs bake work.








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144s 140-160

Somewhere out there, I'm told, is a grid for pricing based on region. I haven't found it...yet.

Condition and location are what drives pricing. In the Northeast, expect to pay more as these cars have all but rusted out of fashion. The better cars bring money now, not so much for desirability as rarity.

$2500 and up for a nice ride. Less for one with mechanical issues. $1000 and under for a "project". $500 buys a dog.








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early 144 prices 140-160


First, keep in mind that these cars for a long time were regarded
as worthless workhorses. As such the majority of them are either
one owner much loved cars, driven hard and put away wet, or retired
to a weedy field or barn for a decade or two.

There are good ones out there, depending on your definition of good
there are actually lots of good ones out there. In some climates the
insides will be shot to hell but the metal will be in good shape
(deserts) and in others they will have moss growing out of the rust
holes but the interior will be in fine shape. Unless the car has
lived in a garage or under cover it will likely have one or the other.

A fine condition 145 with M41 transmission, IPD goodies, original
paint in a good color, and so on will be worth $5000 or more, but
probably to only 2 or 3 people on the planet. The same could be said
of a perfect 71 164e or 1970 142E (or was it 71 that some few 142s
got the D-jet? (but only one or two people will dish out that
kinda money).

A more typical early 140 will likely be worth $1500 if it is in
overall sound condition, the interior is nearly perfect, everything
works, and it only needs minor tinkering. 144s are the least desireable,
then 142s, then 145s. An automatic will greatly reduce the value
though if the example is a gem it is easily enough overlooked (except
if it is a 164). For that $1500, don't expect a perfect car but
instead a car that maybe needs shocks or a new brake caliper or a
new windscreen or a bit of trim or a bumper or tires. But only one
of the above list...

Rust is another matter. It's not for nothing that people call rust
cancer. In my climate cars don't really rust but if the car you're
looking at has some visable rust you can be sure there's more
elsewhere on the car.

Often, there are 140s out there that need the whole front suspension
and tires and maybe a bit of brake work. This will be especially true
of the barn/field 140s. Don't be afraid of this stuff since these
are all easy things to fix and such, but for a whole running gear repair
you can spend $1000 or more for brakes/balljoints/bushings.

Don't be afraid of spending $2500 on one of these cars. They are
good looking, can suffer almost endless abuse and still get you around
safely and in comfort. The original bits and pieces are made out of
*very* high quality materials so a grubby interior can probably be
cleaned up to almost new as long as some nitwit hasn't cut holes in
things for a fancy new stereo. Just keep in mind that buying the car
is just the first of several payments.
chris








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144s 140-160

Okay, my first bit of advice is to get it professionally checked out for around $70 by a shop that you trust. I didn't do this and was told that I needed new tires, batt, and carb. I bought my 68 142 w/74 motor because all of that would be less that $1000 and the body/interior were in decent shape. I paid the guy $950, he was asking $1100. Since then, i have not gotten a new carb, and I have spent ~$2000 on other stuff and now it needs brakes all around. I'm only a High-school senior. I made a big no-no by buying this car without getting it prof. checked first. Also, it has tons of rust in the trunk and floorpan...

My idea would be:
If it is in sound mechanical shape other than the brakes and the int/ext is decent/nice, I'd say anywhere between $1500 and $3500. Full brakes can be anywhere from $300 for used parts, or up to $600 and then you have to pay for labor... unless you do it yourself.

Just rambing on,I hope this helps,
Later,
Kyle - KLR142








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144s 140-160

Kyle
BRAVO!! Thats alot of wisdom for a high school senior! You've stated what I havn't been able to beat into 30 and 40 something silicon valley engineers for literally 18 years.I can't tell you how many times I've had people bring me a car after purchasing it only to give them a $2000 list of things it needs.If the car looks absolutely PERFECT in every way and needs a trans reseal and engine harness (not a good 140 example but a good 240 example,you get the picture),toss in a ater pump and maybe a brake job and your up to a couple thousand in no time.Labor rates here are over $100 an hour with some dealers in San Francisco demanding $130 and up!!
A $65-$75 prepurchase inspection by a disinterested third party who knows volvos is the best investment you can make.
I've also been amazed at how much previous body damage and repair becomes evident with a car on the lift,a good light and the ability to walk around under it.We are at a disadvantage because volvos typically hold up well cosmetically.
I've seen people taken for some REAL money on 264's that sounded like they ran great and had a straight body and nice interior.It is their first volvo but everything seems in order except it needs a valve "adjustment".......YIKES!!








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I learn from the best... 140-160

I got all that info from my own damn(expensive) mistakes and problems with my own 142. The rest of the info comes from guys like you on this website and Shayne Green @ IPD.
THANKS GUYS!
Kyle







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