Here are the specs:

1988 VOLVO 760, turbo, 4 dr. sedan, $2,095, 218k mi., sunroof, radio/tape, cruise, leather, ac, excellent cond., blue.

Is the mileage too high for this price? Kelly Blue Book on it is about 1500. I don't think this guy is going to budge too much off of the asking price. Should I try and knock some $$ off the price or just be thankful I have found this gem and bite the bullet? Keep in mind that at age 19, this was my FIRST car and after my original one died on me (turbo died), I would like to have another one.

I'm a newbie here and appreciate the wisdom any of you can offer.

Oh yeah, I am looking to buy this tomorrow around 12pm EST!!!

I really hate to offer advice to a gatorfan . . . and yeah, two years ago, that dude DID drop that pass in the end zone in Knoxville!!

Anyway, a 760 is a really nice car. If you got time, money, and patience, go for it. However, considering the car's age, things will start breaking. A plain ol' four cylinder 200, 700, etc. would give you less excitement, but probably less headache, too.

Good luck,

Allen, aka VOL FAN!

What is your location? Because when I check www.kbb.com the book value of this car is $2695 in "good" condition, and $3060 in "excellent" (which you say this one is).

http://www.kbb.com/kb/ki.dll/kw.kc.ur?kbb.ME;575433;ME005&04101;sed+p&722;Volvo;1988%20760&16;VO;AA&&&

Check it out, and enter your local ZIP code. I think you're probably off on your $1500 figure.

I'm in Maine, but I can't imagine the location makes that big a difference.

I hope this helps.

Jeff Pierce
--
'92 Mercedes 190E (my daily driver), '93 945 Turbo (a kickass family car), '53 Willys-Overland Pickup (my snow-plow truck/conversation piece)

I concur with the other opinions. The 760 sports a number of electronic doo-dads which may or may not function properly in the near future. I imagine that repairing these systems, if the parts are still available, is very expensive.
Average mileage for an '88 should be in the range of 150-180k miles. An '88 with 218k has probably been driven hard and the early B230FT could well be nearing the end of its life. Finally, you have not seen the car and do not know what work it may need, but you do already know that he is asking above Blue Book value.

A 240DL isn't as lavish or as fast, but probably more reliable and certainly more DIY friendly. You shouldn't have trouble finding one within your budget. But do make sure to set aside at least $500 for repairs/maintenance, regardless of what you buy. These are well made cars, but they are also old, high mileage vehicles and more often than not they all need attention.

If it is really a '88 the car probably contains the K motor and not an early B230FT. While highly unlikely it is possible that it might have gotten the late B230FT. Have to have a look at the engine to know for sure.
--
1988 760Tic - 155,550 1966 M-B 230 sedan - 98,000 - Sometimes I think the surest sign that intelligent life exists elsewhere in the universe is that none of it has tried to contact us. - Bill Watterson

You cannot tell for certain if it is a K block by looking at the exterior of the engine. Early K block engines in the 1988 model year don't have the K cast into the block. The decal on the camshaft drive cover (if it is still present) will have a letter K on it. All 1988 B230 engines have the small connecting rods.

Turbobricks doesn't say anything about some K motors not having a K embossed on the block. If you can't find the K you can always look for the blocks manufacture date. The date is represented by 3 cicles arranged vertically each containing 2 digits behind the #4 exhaust port. The circle on the bottom will contain the year.
--
1988 760Tic - 155,550 1966 M-B 230 sedan - 98,000 - Sometimes I think the surest sign that intelligent life exists elsewhere in the universe is that none of it has tried to contact us. - Bill Watterson

Who are you going to believe, Turbobricks or the Volvo technical manuals? I'll send you the page from the service manual. I won't post the copywrited material here.

By 1990 the B230 blocks no longer had the K cast in them, nor the A cast in near the oil filter, but the decal on the timing belt cover retains the K.

The manufacture date of the block won't tell you whether it is K block, or whether the block had 9mm or 13mm connecting rods installed.

Well I doubt Turbobricks is completely full of s**t. The thing you sent me indicates that most K blocks have a K molded into them just like TB says. Besides the K block is more than just weaker connecting rods. Maybe the weaker connecting rods found there way onto late B230F's as well? When a car company is making thousands of cars it's hard to know for sure. At this point i'm not really sure what were debating about. I am just assuming since my car is a '88 like his and has the K block he probably got one as well. Aslong as it runs right who cares.
--
1988 760Tic - 155,550 1966 M-B 230 sedan - 98,000 - Sometimes I think the surest sign that intelligent life exists elsewhere in the universe is that none of it has tried to contact us. - Bill Watterson

Being a K block motor has nothing to do with the connecting rods. It has only to do with the block and the crankshaft. Would you please elaborate on what you think the K block is other than "weaker connecting rods"?

To me the K block is the early B230FT with some improvements. One of the improvements that wasn't made was beefing up the connecting rods. And if you have the K motor or an early B230FT you probably have the weaker connecting rods. The late B230FT got the bigger connecting rods and some other durability improvements.
--
1988 760Tic - 155,550 1966 M-B 230 sedan - 98,000 - Sometimes I think the surest sign that intelligent life exists elsewhere in the universe is that none of it has tried to contact us. - Bill Watterson

The K block is actually any B230 engine with the 63mm main bearings. The change also incorporates the thrust bearing moving to main bearing number 5. The 13mm connecting rods came early in the 1989 model year to the best of my knowledge. Please look at the pictures of EIN (Engine Identification Number) tags below. The first picture is of a 1990 model year engine, and the second is of a 1991 model year engine. These are both K block engines as shown by the EIN tags. Neither engine has the K cast into the block below the engine serial number.

I enjoy my 760. It is also blue and an '88. Despite what some of the other posters in this thread say about 760's I have not had any trouble with mine. Maybe i'm the exception? I have had no problems with the electrical system(other that fixing PO dumb mistakes) or ACC. My car has functioning R134a AC. Things to look out for? The turbo and the self leveling rear gas shocks. I'd ask the owner about both and whether or not they have ever been replaced(if they have ask exactly how long ago it was). Both items can be quite expensive to replace. If one or both sides of the rear are sagging after a short drive in the car it probably needs new gas shocks. You should be able to tell if the turbo is functioning when your driving the car. When the boost needle starts to move to the right you should be able to feel the extra power coming on. ALso ask how long its been since the car got a new timing belt put on. Just make sure its actually the B230FT and not the French 6 cylinder that is under the hood. Other than that I can't think of anything else besides the usual used car buying tips which you probably already know.
--
1988 760Tic - 155,550 1966 M-B 230 sedan - 98,000 - Sometimes I think the surest sign that intelligent life exists elsewhere in the universe is that none of it has tried to contact us. - Bill Watterson

pull the turbo pipes and check for oil....lotsa oil..lotsa money, little oil either ok turbo - or they have been cleaned out...go on ask me how i know....

LAter in life, i.e. over 10 years old, the simpler the better for Volvos. An old 240, 740, or 940 non-turbo is a better bet for someone with limited resources. If you're like I was, buying the car won't leave you with enough money to fix it. The price isn't way off for a running, drivable car. The problem is THE CAR. A 760 is likely to have major problems with the climate controls, which can really be annoying if you like heat, AC, or just a fan blowing outside air in.
Look, compare prices at www.bargainnews.com and see if you think it's reasonable for what you're getting. I think a simpler car is going to be a better bet for you. If nothing else, take someone along who has Volvo experience to look this car over for trouble spots. Try everything and make sure it works. The AC is not likely to work in any car this age but the heat and fan should. Same with power windows and so on. If stuff is broken or there's a story about why things don't work right, you've got to walk away, even if it looks like a nice car.
Anyone can spend $100 to have a POS detailed so it looks decent.
Good luck in your search.
--
Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: '86 244DL- 215K, 87 244DL- 230K, 88 744GLE- 198K, 91 244 180K

Nope, don't buy it. Try to stay away from the 760s and 960s. They could be and often are high maintenance. Nice cars, and some have had good success. For some it's been nightmarish. I would stick to a 240, 740, 940 with B230 8 valve (vs. 16 valve). Turbo is a little more maintenance but manageable.

The 1988 and later 760s are a very nice car. The electronics may give some trouble at that age and mileage, but the cars are quiet, smooth, and luxurious. If the car has been well cared for it has lots of miles left in it.

Only you can decide if the price is acceptable to you. Also try Edmunds for pricing.