It is a bad idea immobilize the crank by putting my car in 4th gear (it's a manual) and remove the crank bolt that way? I suppose that this would turn the crank in the wrong direction a little. I would rather get the special tool, but it is backordered from IPD for the next couple of weeks, and pretty pricey elsewhere.

The guy at IPD said that he uses an impact wrench to remove the bolt - but the FAQ says that this might cause damage to the crank.

Thanks,
Steve

Thanks, everyone.

4th gear worked like a charm. Timing belt has been replaced!

-Steve
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1986 745 w/ M46 200K since new, 1995 965 104K

Well, I always use an impact wrench, but the 4th gear method works fine. Very well, in fact. Just make sure you have someone standing on the brakes, or have the E-brake set very tightly. Otherwise you'll run yourself over; the torque is enough to move the car.
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Chris Herbst, near Chicago.

Chris, I also put bricks or concrete blocks behind rear wheels to stop car reversing (which it would when turning crank anti- (counter) clockwise in 4th gear). When tightening, put bricks in front of wheels. Works for me.
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BillB

I've always used the 'rope trick'. Check the archives...

Rob Kuhlman

I have an automatic. The rope in the cylinder method worked unbelievably well! And it only really took a few inches of nylon rope.

Well, the advisory was meant to apply to cast cranks which can chip, apparently, sometimes. As opposed to the forged ones of the B21 and back. Imagine the problem if you are the rare unlucky guy with a broken crank. I always use the 4th gear, set e-brake method on M46 cars.

No, no problem at all. In fact it's the easiest method available. I do all manuals that way (and take care of the occasional automatic with an impact wrench - I think I've only done 1 automatic in the past 3 years). I don't see manually turning the crank counterclockwise as a problem.

Bram

Cool. Thanks!

-Steve