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A/C Condensor failed. How hard to replace? recommend book? 700

90 745 16valve 155k with R134a system

So I turn my AC on this morning and nothing happens. Upon inspection I determine that that there is no freon in the system and it appears the the condensor has ruptured and sprayed freon all over the upper right shoulder of the radiator. shit. FCPgroton wants $145 for the condensor. I have R134 BTW. What does it take to do it myself. I know just a little about auto ac systems, basic principles and basic troubleshooting. I've just recently learned how to charge it. (no, I haven't charged THIS car recently.) Any recommended literature? I'm guessing that I need some freon, some O rings and the condensor itself.

mostly looking for a book that will teach me rather than someone to hold my hand.

Any and all help appreciated.


Thanks
- Nate
--
90 745 16v 155k , 86 bmw 325e 163k








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A/C Condensor failed. How hard to replace? recommend book? 700

This is a piece of cake unless one of the fittings is corroded. In that case, the nut will not turn without twisting the line also. And if you get it loose you may find it nearly corroded through under the nut. Then you may find that Volvo has changed the line with the muffler in it requiring some bracketing and routing changes. If all goes well though, be sure to protect the system as much as possible from moisture. Possible dryer replacement. Use esther oil.
Whats wrong with Volvo a/c manual?








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A/C Condensor failed. How hard to replace? recommend book? 700

Assuming you can do the AC evacuation, changing the condenser on a 7/900 is not bad. Be prepared for a seized nut on the high pressure steel line. Its another 50 bucks. The condenser itself it pretty easy to R&R. I strongly recommend the OEM condenser, I had a problem with an aftermarket unit. The OEM condenser is clearly superior to the aftermarket unit I had. Good luck.








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A/C Condensor failed. How hard to replace? recommend book? 700

I have an A/C condensor from an 86 740 turbo its yours, i live in Southern California, its deff used but still holds, i took it off when i was parting out the car, if you want it come pick it up or i can ship it but i have no clue on what the shipping cost would be. Its used as like you would find in any junk yard.








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A/C Condensor failed. How hard to replace? recommend book? 700

I genuinely appreciate the offer and it won't be forgotten but I wanted to use a new one. 86 is kinda old. Especially for someone who desn't have a clue (me). I'll just grab one from FCPgroton for $145 (oem I think). Say, you don't happen to know how to properly evacuate an a/c do you? I'm guessing as soon as you crack the line it will happen for you.

thanks
- Nate
--
90 745 16v 155k , 86 bmw 325e 163k








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A/C Condensor failed. How hard to replace? recommend book? 700

You ask about a book - is this because the Bentley and Haynes are inadequate? I haven't read them regarding a/c, so they may indeed be not enough. Telling what to do is not the same, IMHO, as telling why to do it.

All a/c systems are heat pumps. They absorb heat at point A and dissipate it at point B. A radiator is a heat exchanger, so also is the a/c condenser and a/c evaporator.

Freon-based a/c systems work on the ability of an expanding gas to absorb a lot of heat in the process of expanding. Even better, changing from a liquid to a gas absorbs even more heat. So a refrigerant that changes from liquid to gas under pressures and temperatures available in a car, or a house, or a refrigerator, makes the system possible. R12 and R22 have worked well for decades. Other substances work, too.

So start with the evaporator, in the car. It's a heat exchanger, absorbing heat out of the cabin air. The Freon is a low pressure gas in it. The vacuum created by the compressor sucks that out of the evaporator and raises it to a high pressure. The Freon gives up some of its heat just because of the compression.

The compressor sends the high pressure gas over to the condenser. The airflow though the condensor removes enough heat from the Freon that it converts into a liquid. That's why the sight glass, on cars that had them, show bubbles.

The receiver/drier/accumulator smooths out the pulses from the compressor and also removes moisture, and sends the high pressure liquid Freon over to the expansion valve, or variable orifice valve, which is at or near the entrance to the evaporator.

The high pressure liquid, forced though a small hole, looses pressure and converts back into a gas. Absorbs a lot of heat from the cabin air passing though the evaporator - another heat exchanger. And, we are back around the closed loop again.

End of lesson.

Condenser is the the high pressure side of the system. Replacing it is, as you surmised, a medium to large DIY job. Requires some special tools, namely a vacuum pump and maybe some refrigeration wrenches. Supplies like new 0-rings, and compressor oil, and parts like a new receiver/drier.

Keep the system sealed as well as you can. Slap a piece of duct tape over any open line while you are assembling the various parts. After installing everything, the condensor, receiver/drier, and anything else you decide to put in, and their 0-rings, evacuate the system and let the vacuum stay. It must hold, or else there's a leak. Only when there are no leaks should new refrigerant be installed. Use a little compressor oil on the 0-rings when installing.

This post has gotten alltogether too long.

I hope it makes sense and is helpful to you.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)


PS Webster Groves HS '54








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