1993 945T, 167k

I found no record of timing belt change from PO so figured it, and the tensioner, needs to be done now. What seals/gaskets do you recommend to be changed together with this job?

Thanks,
Lih-Yen

The 150k interval (which you're doing a few thou late) is the perfect time for the tensioner and the three front seals.

If you treat the valve cover gasket carefully, you probably won't need to replace it. I fact, if you dig out the cam seal (vs. lifting the front cam bearing cap to remove the seal), you don't need to touch the valve cover or its gasket.

This is also the time for a water pump, if needed.
--
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)

Thanks, Don.

- And the three front seals being...?
- How involved are replacing these seals? Special tools required? (Mechanically I would rate myself as at least intermediate, it's the time and tools conccerns that will determine if I will give this job to a garage.)
- Water pump looks OK. What are its typical failure modes? Sudden seizure, sudden gasket leak/breakdown, sudden impeller breakage, or gradual deterioation?
- Valve cover gasket looks fine, no sign of oil seepage; since this can be done fairly easily and independently of the timing belt job (please correct me if I am wrong), I assume it would be of lower priority. (Have in the last two weeks bought about $350 worth of parts from FCP Groton, need some breathing room. :-(

Thanks again,
Lih-Yen

"And the three front seals being...?"
- Front main seal (crankshaft).
- Camshaft seal.
- Intermediate shaft seal.

"How involved are replacing these seals?"

Not very. You quite literally remove (pry out) the old seals and insert the new seals in place. You must be sure to drive the seals in straight -- some folks use a piece of square-cut PCV pipe to do this (good idea), but I've done a zillion seals using a flat drift punch. You also must be sure the seal lip doesn't "roll over" when installing, and be ABSOLUTELY sure to lube the seal lip and mating surface with clean oil. (A dry seal lasts about 2 revolutions of the engine...)

Getting to the seals requires that you remove various sprockets and stuff -- this is probably the time to buy a Haynes or Bentley manual that shows details of this using illustrations.

"Water pump looks OK. What are its typical failure modes?"

Often the bearings wear so the shaft can wobble and then the seal begins to weep. This results in antifreeze dribbling down the front of the block. But also, the top ("mushroom") seal can fail, usually as a result of a bad cam seal, which oil-soaks the rubber water pump seal. And the pipe O-ring can leak when it dries up.

In rare cases (with brand X pumps) the impeller blades can corrode away and the pump won't pump much. (BTDT)

"Valve cover gasket looks fine, no sign of oil seepage; since this can be done fairly easily and independently of the timing belt job (please correct me if I am wrong)..."

You're right. Moreover, no need to diddle with the valve cover if you pry out the cam seal.

I would estimate that, if you already have the front apart for a timing belt, replacing the seals will add about an hour, depending on your skill level.

I personally prefer to remove the seal housing (crank seal) -- about 6 small bolts, two up from the pan -- and install the seal in the housing and then reinstall the housing with new seal over the crank. Others remove the seal leaving the housing in place.
--
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)

I am not sure if my follow-up went through. Sorry about the double post if it did. Anyhow...

Thanks to Don and Bob.

Now I have just a few more questions, and then I think I am quite ready for the timing belt job. (Damned, I thought I was going to give it to Marino. :)

1. Is it a good idea to also change belt cover gasket?
2. Regarding the cam and I-shaft seals, please see:
http://www.fcpgroton.com/Volvo700900gaskets.htm
"6842273 / Cam and Intermediate shaft seal fits B23,B230 2 required". Is this the right part? It does not say it fits B230FT but I couldn'd find any other part that fits this application. (Couldn't talk to Nick Bauer, off hours.)
3. Don, could you please comment on the rope trick for removing crank pulley bolt? Is there any danger of damaging the piston face? How about lint left inside the chamber? It's not that I don't want to pay for 5284, it's rather that I _think_ the rope trick combined with the belt+board trick (per Chris Mullet) is an excellent solution. (You can tell I've studied the 700/900 FAQ.)

Thanks again,
Lih-Yen

Answers:

1) The belt cover has no gasket.

2) The camshaft and I-shaft use the same seal.

3) The turbo engine (B230FT) is identical to the non-turbo enfine (B230F) in that regard. In fact, those seals also fit the B21 and B23 engines the same way.

4) Soft rope, such as cotton clothes line, will not harm the pistons or the valves. Any residual lint will burn or blow through. Be sure, however, that you find TDC for piston one when the valves are closed. That is, when the piston is at the top of the compression stroke. Then turn (or back up) the crank about 90-degrees from TDC opposite to the direction that you intend to tighten (or loosen) the crank bolt. This assures that as you tighten (or loosen) the bolt, you'll be forcing the piston toward that TDC (instead of away from it).

It's harder to describe than to do.
--
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)

- And the three front seals being...?
Front cam seal
Aux shaft seal (same as cam seal)
Front main crank seal

- How involved are replacing these seals?
Easy breezy. Carefully pry them out (you do not want to nick the sealing surfaces), lube 'em up and press them in with an appropriately sized socket. (I used to drill a small hole in the seal, screw in a sheet metal screw and pry the seal out with a claw hammer but I recently found some new box cutter knives from Stanley with a small hook on the end that work perfectly, just slide the blade under the seal, hook it and pull, they pop right out. Again, be careful not to scratch the metal surfaces.

Special tools required? (Mechanically I would rate myself as at least intermediate, it's the time and tools conccerns that will determine if I will give this job to a garage.) see above, intermediate capabilities are more than sufficient, no special tools required

- Water pump looks OK. What are its typical failure modes? Sudden seizure, sudden gasket leak/breakdown, sudden impeller breakage, or gradual deterioation? Gradual deterioration of seal between pump and head is most likely indicated by coolant seepage on/around pump.
--
Bob Kraushaar '94 945T, '91 940T(back from retirement), '88 240, '84 242T, '94 F-150, '89 560 SL, '68 Shelby GT-500 KR