2 different sets of recommendations for service??

Aloha,
Along with the radiator and transmission replacement, I also need the 100,000 miles service. I got estimates for the 100k service from 2 Volvo mechanics. The price (expensive) is about the same for both mechanics ($688 and $760), but they don’t include the same services. I’m confused about which I need. I also wonder if there are any I can do without (It’s going on credit). Is it wise to change the tensioner and crankshaft pulley (the two parts are $258)? You folks are great that you can do your own mechanical work!

Mechanic J:
Injector cleaning solvent
Fuel filter and seals

Flame trap plastic, nipple, vacuum hose
timing belt and seals
timing belt pulley

Mechanic M:
timing belt and seals
pulley, crank d
tensioner, timi

MOA oil additive
fan belt (2)
service pcv system and throttle body (optional, but recommended)

Whichever mechanic I choose, I'm not getting some recommended service done. I read from your faq about the timing belt needing to be changed, but what about those other parts? THANK YOU for any replies.

Aloha! I'm thinking that I'll bring the parts to Hawaii and you pay me $400 to offset the price of the ticket. : )

It's like Chris H says. The Timing Belt I'd have done (part cost $12.00ish)
Since the Belts are off because he did the Timing Belt, have those replaced too. It should be no extra labor cost since they are off the car already.
The Throttle body I would have cleaned (a Can of carb cleaner $4.00ish)
Throw in a can of injector cleaner in your gas tank yourself $6.00ish
Good idea to have the Flame trap replaced $2.00 tops
I haven't replaced my tensioner I have 220000+ on my car.
I guess Imentioned many things that between the two of them they were going to do but the Labor price is way high considering most of the work will take about 4 hours total and the parts are so cheap that we are talking about.

Timing Belt 2.5 hrs.
adding new belts done at this time.
Throttle body cleaning 1 hr.
Flame trap 15 minutes.


--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwr and two motorcycles: it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me

Honestly, if it's going on credit, I'd say go for the T-belt and tensioner. The tensioner is $35. The belt is $12. or $8. And the rest of it is just as cheap. Get a new fan belt and alternator belt. Another $20.

The prices you have been quoted are a lot of money to pay for those parts, even if they do get shipped all the way to HI. Shop around or tell them you'll bring the parts, because basically either you can do it that way, or you can't afford to do it at all. They will probably oblige you (there's probably a law that says they have to, but there are ways around that kind of thing, like charging more labor because of "inferior" parts or something).

I'd skip everything you can get away without. Consumer debt isn't necessary to keep your car running. I maintain my cars by the book, with respect to all of that stuff, but I do it all myself, so it is cheap for me to do so. Don't go overboard; just make sure you have a reliable car and that should do OK.

You will probably get a lot of answers on this one; each correct in it's own right. Good luck!
--
Chris Herbst, near Chicago.

I agree. If you've got the money, just do it. All the things both mechanics want to do are a good idea to service, esp. at 100k if they have not been done yet (although likely the timing belt has been done). Neglect on the PCV system, as many will atest (as myself will), leads to mysterious oil leaks. But if you can afford to have a reliable mechanic baby your volvo, I say go for it.

Matt

Ditto's on the previous two comments. PCV is important, I neglected that and paid for it! Do all the belts. Buy them on line and take them to the mechanic. If he gets crabby with you just tell him you were going to try and do it yourself and changed you mind! Shop around on line for your parts, you can save BIG bucks from one Volvo dealer to another when buying genuine parts. Made sure you know what model you have as that will make a difference when buying parts. 1989 740 8 valve ,740 turbo 8 valve, or 740 GLE 16 valve

You may or may not need a tensioner. I decided not to replace mine since it felt and sounded absolutely perfect and better than the replacement.

My mechanic won't install parts that I bring him. It is their policy. And I understand. Mechanics make some of their money on the parts, and they make sure that you get the right ones. A good mechanic is much more valuable than saving a couple of bucks on belts, in my opinion. I am sure the dealer won't miss a couple of bucks, but the shop I bring my car to has only a few employees. Plus the parts necessary to do the timing belt are pretty cheap, even from your mechanic. The expense is the labor.

If you have an 8 valve engine (NOT a 16 valve) and like some adventure (or don't travel too far from home) and have AAA then you could wait on the timing belt until you have the $. It won't hurt the engine to have it break while driving and will be the same price to replace. In my experience, each of two timimg belts lasted at least 80K. (One broke and the other didn't). I assume that if your car has 100K then it has been changed at least once. When you do change the timimg belt, I would also change the water pump (most recommend every 100K). Do all the belts when you do the timimg belt. Otherwise the other belts can wait as well until they start squeaking, cracking or break - again if you like adventure.

Definately do the flame trap and I would clean the throttle body and idle air control valve - cheap and you will like the way your car drives. Actually, you could wait on the latter two, but do the flame trap to help prevent oil leaks.

-Steve
Durham, NC

Forgot to address the crankshaft pulley. Did your mechanic inspect it to determine that it needs replacement? It is expensive. The rubber inserts in them do go bad, but I wouldn't say that this is a necessary item if the one you have looks OK and you are concerned about the cost. Despite what I just said in my previous post, you might mention to him that you can get a new one from fcpgroton.com for $65. One way to test if the pulley is going bad is to draw a line accross the top and see if the individual pullies shift over time (a couple of days/weeks of driving).
-Steve