Ok, a previous scary story on jacking the car is all I need. That person is careful and knows what he is doing, just got unlucky (and very lucky at the same time) I think. Someone please provide if possible a good overall source for jacking instructions/procedures and jacking points for a 240. I have two jack stands, one set of Rhino ramps, and would like to get a good handle on sequence of jacking each side if I decide to use the stands vs ramps. And also proper placement & location of stands. All I have right now is my car jack by the way - guess you will tell me to buy a floor jack. Meanwhile, presume the plastic Rhino ramps (rated to 3 ton each I think) are fully safe. Yes, I use chock blocks, and get real uneasy under a car, which makes me want to be real cautious.

Lesson learned, use Rhino ramps on rough surface like the driveway, as opposed to smooth surface like the garage, they can slip a bit when mounting them. Thanks! John

I have used the emergency jacks for years to do work on my cars. I only used them for lifting though. I always put blocks or stands under the car when I do anything more than changing tires. I have a floor jack now, but I often still just use the emergency jack, because it is lighter and easier to deal with. The floor jack is nice when you want to lift a whole end at the same time, but its a pain to move around on a gravel driveway.

One post mentioned buying a used jack. that can be good thing or bad one . If you find one TEST it! Jack up your car or the sellers car as high as possible as let it stay there a while.You want to make sure it HOLDS.The seller might be upgrading or just bailing.Something to watch for.Good luck.Note the 4 of July is a good time to catch a sale!
Nelson

3 ton+ jack - some are really cheezy and pay attention to the skimpy rear casters
3 ton+ jack stands (I have 8) - and I always have a primary and a back-up
wood
wheel chocks

The other guys nailed it. Just be safe....and careful. You'll be fine.
--
Paul's Amsoil and other lubricants

Thanks, got it. I surmised needing a back up, so use jackstands with ramps in that role. Also can get wood. Always know to chock wheels. Still debating what kind, if any, floor jack to get.

I agree w/ Chris about the floor jack comments. I also have a 3 ton craftsman roll around floor jack that I recently bought when Sears had a sale. For $99 I got the jack, two jack stands, and a nice creeper. Get a good roll around floor jack and you'll thank yourself every time. Now about the jacking points. I jack up the front one side at a time by placing the floor jack cup under the rear bearing mount for the front control arm. For the rear, I place the cup under the differential and jack up both sides at once. I place the jack stands under the jacking points (front or rear). Note that the top of my jack stands have a moon shaped cutout on which the car's jacking point can rest and be stable. If I'm working on the front, I then run the floor jack under the car and place the cup under the transmission mount and pump it up until it just takes some of the weight. You could also place the ramps under the car, just aft of the jack stands for additional insurnace. Never jack up the car by using the unibody frame (for lack of a better term). That's why you see so many of the 240s with this part dented up. Beware of tire shops that do this - make them use floor jacks on the jacking points or what I've described above!

"Lesson learned, use Rhino ramps on rough surface like the driveway, as opposed to smooth surface like the garage, they can slip a bit when mounting them."

I found a spare tire, lying flat, butted up against the rear of the ramp, stops it from slipping.

"guess you will tell me to buy a floor jack."

I'd like one myself, but cost aside, they take up room.

"All I have right now is my car jack by the way"

It bugs me that there are only 4 jacking points for the jack provided. And even if you go to a floor jack, you only get a couple more (axle/diff,front cross member).

"And also proper placement & location of stands."

For the rear, the axle "outriggers?". For the front, the front cross member though I haven't tried it because it looks slippery. Instead I use the short crossmembers under the front seat area (not the transmission one).

Note: I share the weight between the axle stand and the jack

"and get real uneasy under a car, which makes me want to be real cautious"

Good to be.

BTW, I've noticed on a previous post that someone said they use the jacking points for the jack to place their stands. Don't know how that is done if the jacks are there.

--
'80..245..M46...b21a..SU carb..

I'm very careful when driving up onto my ramps, and even so, only a month ago I ran a little too far over them and they tilted up... and then when I released the brake the car ran over them and off the back side. BANG. Oops. I wasn't under it, but it was an embarrasing reminder.

Most quality car ramps are great for service under the car. For things in the middle of the car, like exhaust or transmission work, I find that placing them under the two left or right wheels is helpful. I've also got a medium sized floor jack with enough lift to get the car onto the ramps if I need to. That's a big plus, since it's tough to get enough room for the rear to drive up onto them. You can drive up onto one front one, then jack under the rear axle or trailing arm to lift the rear wheel, then place the ramp under that tire.

CAUTION with regards to lifting any RWD Volvo by the rear wheels!!!
The parking brake is all that's keeping you from rolling away when you lift the rear wheels. Raising ONE wheel negates the effect of PARK or leavign a standard trans car in gear- you NO LONGER have anything but the parking brake to prevent it from rolling away. Or at least till it rolls sideways off the jack and gets back on the ground. Ifyou lift under the center of the differential, which is OK, you now have NO means of keeping the car in place. ALWAYS chock BOTH opposite wheels. Note that if you lift the back end, and only chock one front wheel, then turn the key to check something, your car can move because now the steering is not locked. BLOCK THE WHEELS!
As for lift locations, the center of the front crossmember is also good, but make sure the jack is on steel and not 1/2 on the plastic splash guard. Either side frame rail behind the front wheel is a strong location. The factory jack points are good, unless the car is starting to get rusty. Then use extreme care. In the rear, the frame in front of the trailing arms is usually strong but be aware that some brake and fuel lines are in the area. Always double check your jack placement before lifting. Some locations will benefit from a block of wood on top of the jack. Others like the differential, fit nicely into the saddle of the jack and are better lifted without anything on the jack.
One last tip: loosen lug nuts on the ground, then jack the car up. Don't remove them, just break them loose so you're not applying lots of torque while it's in the air. Same when lowering- install and snug the nuts, then lower the car and torque.

Please be careful and get a professional to work on the car if you don't have the equipment to do it safely!
--
Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: '87 244DL/M47- 221K, 88 744GLE- 202K, 91 244 181K, 88 244GL 145K

Take $125.00 and budget it for a jack. Sounds expensive, but not really.

With $100, you can get a 3 ton floor jack. A nice one that has the valve integrated in the handle and rolls on decent sized wheels. It should also have a decent sized lifting cup (or whatever you call them).

The reason I say $125, is because you can get a good, decent name jack for that price. Make no mistake; you can get decent jacks for a lot less, but the big thing is that a lot of them are cheap chinese ones and the problem, is that the valves tend to leak a little bit. Not on all of them, but on some of them. Sometimes a quick hammer blow to the valve to seat it, is all it needs. Sometimes they never work at all. Some of them work perfectly.

Avoid the type with the manual valve that you have to release on the body of the jack. They never have strong handles, and they don't do the trick. I learned when I was in my late teens, that those were not the way to go.. despite the cheap initial cost.

I have dumped cars off floor jacks. Once when we were moving around a wrecked car on two floor jacks. Didn't hurt anything, but it wasn't good either way. It is best to watch out, be careful lifting, and stay OUT from under the car until it is properly supported. That should do it, in most cases. It is obviously a dangerous thing to do by nature, but you will decrease your risk 99% by dumping the car jack and getting a GOOD floor jack. Not the kind that you can easily lift and carry in the trunk.

I use a 90s Craftsman 3ton floor jack in my own garage. It's a good piece. Cost around $100, in the 90s. You can find decent ones for $75. Less than that and it starts to get a little shaky. Possible, but shaky. ANd the jack is the thing doing all the lifting... so why skimp on that?

Plus, I had a cheap ass jack get stuck in the UP position one time. Good thing I had the better jack to get the car down!
--
Chris Herbst, near Chicago.

If the $ are an issue, check out your local auctions and garage sales. E-bay is ok, but shipping is a bite. There are always equipment sales or auction where some poor slob has gone belly up and decent equipment can be had reasonably. Post a wanted sign at the local parts stores too. Car guys are always looking for better tools and getting rid of their older stuff.

Thanks folks, all great tips. Meanwhile, I will be safe and deliberate. I note that the Bentley Manual and most other retail volvo or car manuals have rather small sections on jacking cars, so you really have to take nothing for granted and err on side of safety in these matters. Follow owners manual instructions on any car for changing tire, but that obviously does not cover many maintenance situations.

John

Although I do have jack stands, ramps and a moderately good floor jack. I almost cannot get under a car until I stack up enough solid wood blocks to catch and hold the car if anything slips. By solid wood blocks I mean 8"x8"x12" or larger, like sections of railroad tie. I do not mean loose stacks of random 2"x4" pieces.

Somehow I just feel better with somthing solid between the car and the ground if I have to be under there. I can see through the jack stands and ramps.

In younger days I have spent time under cars with minimal support and was just lucky.

Sometimes we survive stupidity.

91_240

Great idea, I have plenty of good timber around, will see to it, thanks!