Is there any special procedure when draining the oil from a turbo? What about the oil cooler, how do you get all of the old oil out?

When I change the oil on my 940SE Turbo, I break loose the fittings for the oil cooler at the bottom of the engine. This completely drains the oil in the cooler. It also greatly reduces the oil the leaks out when the filter is removed. I haven't seen any evidence of leaking at the fittings that I took loose to drain the oil cooler between oil changes.

To get all the oil out, I suppose you could fabricate up an adapter and hook it up to a fluid vacuum pump ...

But seriously, no oil change is ever truly complete, even if there was no turbo or auxillary oil cooler. Change it as usual, and don't fret it.

For longevity, use a full synthetic oil (but not Castrol Syntec!). It's much less likely to "coke" up in the turbo, which ultimately clogs the oil passages and starves the bearings to death.

If you're going to stick with regular oil, then consider one of the universal duty oils, like Chevron Delo 400 or Shell Rotella T.

Don't use POS Fram, Pennzoil, or Quaker State filters! My preference goes to the Motorcraft's (FL-1A if you got the clearance, otherwise FL-300S) and Mann's (W917). Both are well constructed (no cardboard inside!), with anti-drainback valves that work.

-- Kane

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Blossom II - '91 745Ti/M46 ... Bubbles - '74 144GL/BW35 ... Buttercup - '86 245GL/AW70 ... The Wayback Machine - '64 P220/M40

Although there are professional engine oil flushing machines.