Has anyone out there had any luck dealing with a squeaking blower fan or motor without going through the whole console disassembly procedure rquired to get at the motor? Vehicle is a 93 240.
Bob S.

Thanks for the input. It's not a high piched shriek yet, more like a monotonous, persistent cricket. I got into the dash/console disassembly about half way, and than all those intestines and vital organs intimidated me enough to make me close the whole thing up again and pray I'd get all the plug-ins plugged in correctly again. That sort of sight really makes me appreciate my PV. Before resorting to ear plugs, I sprayed some teflon lube into the fresh air intake below the widshield. That seems to have stopped the squeak, at least, temporarily, which makes me think that Trev's approach may be next on my schedule. In the mean time I'll start steeling myself for committing major surgery.
Bob S.

Replacing the blower motor is about as comfortable as chasing a fart through a box of nails. That said, Don Foster has posted a quick and dirty access route in the archives, under, I believe, "chainsaw". I bought a new motor at Pep Boys for something under 45 dollars and did it the hard way. If I hadn't found that dandelion weeder, I'd still be trying to get the clips off of the top of the end covers...

When my fan started squeeling I figured dry bearings. So I looked at the diagram of the blower, to see where the shaft to motor entries were.

Then I removed the front console and drilled a couple of holes near the shaft entry, positioned so that I could pop out the rocker switch plates for future access.

With fan on first tried WD40 to see if sound would go away. It did but it smelled up the car. So used electric motor oil SAE20 which is heavier and longer lasting. Working OK.

Patched holes with duct tape though may splurge and replace with rubber plugs.
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb and M46 trans

I agree with Rob. Almost.

The other option is to disassemble everything, remove, clean, lube, reassemble, and reinstall the blower motor.

Back in '96 I did that to the blower motor in my '86.... After 7 years and almost 100k miles, it's still squeakless and works great.

If/when you disassemble the motor, be sure the brushes and commutator still have enough "meat." If not, then Rob is right -- a new motor is best (considering the work involved).
--
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)

Don,
In my search in the Archives for solutions to the squeaking blower problem I have found lots of references to your "chainsaw" method of gaining access to the motor, but haven't been able to find the actual text. Could you please point me to it. Thanks,
Bob S.

Sil --

From my archives....

Today, I'd probably do it the right way, although I've done probably 6-8 this way...

1. Drop and remove the left and right felt kick panels and center console side panels.
   
2. Find your Dremel tool and install the smallest-diameter cutting or routing bit you have. Please wear safety glasses or a face shield for this procedure.
   
3. On the left side, mark out a rough cutting circle -- perhaps about 7"-8" in diameter, covering as much of the flat area as possible.
   
4. Scribe an alignment mark across this circle -- this will permit you to reinstall the plastic piece properly aligned.
   
5. Using the Dremel tool, cut out the circle and remove the plastic piece.
   
6. Moving to the right side, repeat this process -- be sure to scribe the alignment mark. Keep in mind that you're cutting out this piece so you can remove the impeller. Therefore, it must be as large as possible (and hopefully in one piece).
   
7. With a small pick, remove the clip locking the right impeller to the motor shaft. You must pry one end up, slide it sideways, lift it out, and slide the clip off the shaft so it can be removed. Be very careful -- those clips like to snap far, far away. They're worse than kids.
   
8. Reach in and pull the impeller off. Note that the right impeller is different from the left impeller. Mark the right impeller for future reference and proper reinstallation. (The right and left impellers look identical but have different angles to the blades -- one for clockwise rotation, one for counterclockwise. Mark each one clearly. Don't mix 'em up.)
   
9. If the impeller feels stuck to the shaft, use a touch of oil or WD-40 on the shaft -- sometimes it helps to power-up the motor (low speed), while holding the impeller, and "spin" the shaft out from the impeller. If the motor's shot and won't run, spin it by twisting the other impeller or by holding the other shaft.
   
10. Do the same to the left impeller -- and again taking pains to hold onto the stupid clip.
    
11. Looking in the left side, note that there is a Venturi, or "throat." Also note that the motor has either three "ears" for mounting, or a round mounting flange.
    
12. Using the Dremel tool, either cut out the Venturi "throat" or cut three wide slots to accommodate the motor mounts -- whatever it takes to provide clearance so the motor can be removed.
    
13. Stuff a rag down the duct immediately under the motor nearest you on the left side, wrapping it around the baffle (you'll thank me later).
    
14. Remove the three Phillips screws securing the motor to the frame. Note one screw also secures the resistor bracket. I prefer using a magnetized screwdriver. A long Phillips screwdriver and set of "Chinese fingers" is very helpful. The rag in the duct will catch the screws you drop.
    
15. Go back to the right side. Observe the vacuum reservoir under the radio -- it's white or translucent plastic, and looks like three tennis balls joined in sequence. You may need to remove this reservoir. If so, there is a vacuum line connected at each end -- remove them.
    
16. Reach in with a long flat-blade screwdriver and pry open the bracket gripping the reservoir. You should be able to tug the reservoir out.
    
17. Under or near the reservoir is the ground lead for the blower motor. It's damned near impossible to remove unless you have small hands, an offset screwdriver or Chapman tool kit (right angle Phillips screwdriver), and a good engineering words.
    
18. Pull back the center console switch cluster, find the red lead from the motor, unplug it, and attach a 10' "leader" to it (I use an old piece of wire).
    
19. Going back to the left side, reach in and push the resistor to the side. (If you decide to remove the resistor, then go back to the blower switch, unplug the resistor harness, and attach a similar "leader.")
    
20. Reaching in the left side, pull out the motor while carefully -- and patiently -- feeding the power wires up through the hole in the housing. Pay attention that your "leader" does not get pulled off the power wire.
    
21. Pull the motor out, unfasten the "leader," and secure it -- you'll need it later for pulling the power wire back in place.
    
22. Rebuild, repair, relube, or toss and replace the motor -- your decision.
    
23. If appropriate, remove, repair, or replace the resistor -- as needed -- by carefully pulling the power leads through and assuring the "leader" follows faithfully.
    
24. Fasten the "leader" to the wires of the new resistor, and carefully pull the wires back into place while repositioning the resistor.
    
25. Fasten the first "leader" wire to the motor power wire and carefully pull the leader back while inserting and repositioning the motor.
    
26. Using the "Chinese fingers" or a magnetized screwdriver, insert and tighten the three screws. Note that one screw also secures the resistor.
    
27. Try to reposition the rubber grommet (through which the power leads go) in the bottom of the heater housing. Attach the motor ground lead.
    
28. Pull the rag out of the left side duct inside the housing.
    
29. Reinstall and reconnect the vacuum reservoir. Don't bother tightening the bracket -- that reservoir will never fall out by itself.
    
30. Reinstall the right and left impellers, paying attention to which one goes to which side. While installing the clips, keep your finger over them -- they like to fly off into the sunset.
    
31. Reinstall the 7" diameter cutouts. The alignment marks are very helpful. You can duct tape them in, but you'll be doing it again in 3-6 months -- duct tape dries out.
    
32. I've had good luck temporarily "tacking" them in place with duct tape (3-4 locations) and using RTV to seal the gap. The next day, when the RTV has cured, I remove the duct tape and fill the spaces with RTV.
    
33. Forget about the "Venturi" -- it's gone.
    
34. Connect up the power wires and reassemble the center console.
    
35. Try the blower. Keep your eyes away from the vents -- there'll be a cloud of black plastic chips for the first minute. You'll need to vacuum the car.
    

Thanks, Don. With a bit of luck I'll get a couple of months of grace to make up my mind which route to go. The car doesn't get driven all that much.
Bob S.

Don,
Do you mind if I add a link to my "yardsale" page pointing to your post?

--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Art...

Better yet, just copy the content onto your Web page.

Do you want the tagged-up html version?
--
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)

Up to you, however you wish it presented. I could paste from "view source", but I was just going to add a paragraph at the beginning of my page, indicating how next time I will use your method, (insert here), but here's what I went through last time...
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

That high pitched shriek is the sign that you need to tear down the dashboard and replace the motor. No other options besides the "OFF" switch unfortunately.
--
Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: '87 244DL/M47- 221K, 88 744GLE- 202K, 91 244 181K, 88 244GL 145K