I'm just wondering if its possible to change this gasket without actually pulling the engine. If anyone has any tips the knowledge would certainly be appreciated.
thanks.
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1973 145 Lola

I've done it bofore, to replace a broken oil pump. (Don't ask about why - it involved a lake, a car, freezing weather, and the ignorance of youth). I supported the front of the engine, unbolted the motor mounts, and unbolted the crossmember. I don't recall unhooking the brakes or the steering, I think they all let the crossmember come down far enough to get the oilpan and oil pump off. At the time it seemed to be a great labor savings over pulling the entire engine.

It seem to me that you don't actually have to remove the pan to change the gasket. If you raise the engine enough to remove all the pan bolts, you should be able to slip the gasket around the pan and into the gap.

I've also witenessed the dodgy (pun!) trick of changing bottom-end bearings "in the car", albeit on a american V8, but I sure would like to be able to do that on my 145.

Myslef, I'd like to change the oil pump seal if I could, so it seems like a lot of work just for the gasket.

I'll be swapping engines sometime soon, and I think I might try this.

Cleaning the edges and rims properly seems to be another matter.

That's the way I wanted to try it also (soon), without removing the crossmember just to replace the gasket.

Concerning raising the engine, I used to have a 1976 Mazda F1000 that had a Mazda 323 1300 engine in it. The steering box was in the way for removing the oil filter, so you had to lift the engine every 10 000km to change the filter. Without a hoist, we would just jack up the engine under the bell housing (after loosening the mounts). Works perfect, and no damage. I can think of worse stress on a gravel road... Used the same technique last weekend to replace the mounts on my B20B. Much less work and effort than a hoist! Just make sure you do not stress the exhaust, and that you do in fact lift on the bell.

It can be done by supporting the engine by the top of the body (4x4 lumber and chains or some such), lifting the front of the car, and removing the entire crossmember. I have never done it -- seems like just as much work as pulling the engine, and more likely for something catastrophic to happen.

You can also remove the oil pump with the engine jacked up off the mounts & the pan dropped down. I would do this as an emergency measure only though [to retrieve a lifter in the pan for instance] as it's a real PITA to get the pump back on. Are you sure the oil leak [if that's what you're fixing] is from the pan & not the crank seals or oil pressure switch?



Mike M.