Hey fellas, i need to put a new headgasket on my 86 automatic 240 dl wagon. I was just wondering about how long this job might take. I understand it depends on the person, but i've seemed to keep up with the average time for other jobs. Any other gaskets i'll need to replace during the procedure? Any help is much appreciated. Thanks.

-jg OUT!

for torqing sequence see pic below
arrow the front of the engine

do it in at least 3 stages (((I did mine in 4 stages, to soften the fact of possible warping - this is personal)))

nr 3 (is in Dutch): add an addtional 90° degree after step nr 2
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240 '88 B200K wite sedan 255K km Europe virgo+all turbo gauges, Phoenix Gold + Kenwood ampli, Focal door speakers + tweeters, Kenwood 6'x 9', 10 CD changer in enlarged globe cabinet, dubble rear coil springs , hitch, fog lights, 2 extra rectangular pencil

No need to replace the headbolts, you certainly CAN, but not necessary. I would say 4 hours is about right, I've seen it done in 2, but that was on a 740, and while they are basically the same, they are not exactly the same.

You are better served with a "full set", than making repeated trips to the store for the additional gasket or two that did not come in the set, not to mention it's probabally much cheaper to get everything in one set.

I typically remove the Exh manifold because it's heavy (actually just unbolt it from the head and let it sit attached to the pipes), and leave the intake ON the head, makes it easier to pick up, and you don't ahve to fish around for those semi-buried intake bolts.
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JohnG 1989 245 MT @216,500

Volvo states that their reduced section head bolts (regular external hex, not the earlier socket head type) can be re-used up to five times, or "until the bolts show signs of distortion" whatever that means to the naked eyeball. I have used them up to three times without difficulty. They are not torque to yeild in the modern sense like some GM and Ford engines use, which definitely have one use only bolts.
The Elring gasket sets are fine, although many do not include the damper rings for the top of the valve retainers, and these should be replaced as long as you are that far into the engine.

I am in the process of replacing the headgasket on my 90 744ti and I bought all of my parts from newandusedvolvoparts.com. They advertise here.
They had the best price and I did not have any problems with them.
That being said you will need new head bolts. You should also have the head checked to make sure it is not warped. You also need to take a bottom tap and chase the bolt holes in the block.
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90 744ti, Airbox, K/N, Cold air, G-Valve, Dual boost control, VDO, Modified exhaust.

I head that I'll need new headbolts too when i replace the gasket. Is this true? Thanks...

-jg OUT!

I seem to recall that the Dealer 'Head Set" does NOT include a lot of stuff that comes in the Elring head set. Intake manifold gasket for example. Maybe other BBrs can expand on this.

I'm guessing the time at 4 hours +/-. Haven't done it in a while.
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Bruce Young,
940-NA (current)
'80 GLE V8 (Now gone)
'83 Turbo 245
'73 142 (98K)
'71 144 (track modified)
New 144 from '67 to '78
Used '62 122 from '63 to '67

I was just gonna get the gasket from autozone or discount auto parts. I know the elring "set" has a lotta stuff i just didn't know if i'd need it all. Do i need to take off the exhaust manifold and intake manifold? I also heard that I'll need new head bolts since they can only be used once - is that true? Thanks..


-jg OUT!

As Bryan said, you really do need to be certain the head is plane and doesn't have corroded-out sections. You can spent lots of time cleaning off old gaskets and then refitting and torquing it all correctly, and find the new one blows after a few miles.
You can either have it professionally skimmed, but beware that everytime that is done it gets a bit thinner, and the compression ratio increases. You can do a good checking job yourself with a steel straightedge and feeler guages, and fine emery paper on a flat block of steel. Lay the straightedge lenghthways across the thinnest bits between the cylinders, and check that you cannot get a fine guage underneath. Try it in all directions, and especially across vulnerable looking bits. I think it is a mistake to plan to do any job like this within a certain time limit. Work at it slowly and let it take as long as it needs to do a good job.
Use a torquewrench on the bolts in the correct order - best to do it progressively ie half the correct torque first time, then go round again at the proper setting, then again at the same setting.

PS Have you got the old one off yet? Don't dismantle too much to start with - heads can seize on and be very stubborn to move. Tricks are giving the engine a turn on the starter (plugs in ), or even in extremes fire it for a second. Or it may just lift straight off.

Good luck

Not true. They might fatigue and need replacing if you cycled them 5+ times, but a single replacement episode is no problem. There are different tightening techniques for early and late bolts. You have the late. If you are reading the instructions in Haynes make sure you're on the right page. Use a known-accurate torque wrench.

Intake and exhaust manifolds must come off, so you'll need both those sets of gaskets. A lot of hoses and wiring gets disconnected/moved when you pull the intake so label things, take notes and photos. You can't just lift the head slightly and slide a new gasket in there. I was happy with the Elring set from FCP-Groton. There's a few pieces you don't need but it has ALL the stuff you do.

You must make sure the cylinder block surface is absolutely clean of old gasket bits and anything else. Block ALL holes while cleaning, being especially careful of the little hole on the exhaust side of the deck, betw. #1/#2 - that's the oil feed passage to the head.

Should probably renew the rubber O-ring that seals the water pump to the head...I think this may be in the Elring kit.

If the gasket failed because of overheating - the usual cause - you should check the head surface for flatness with a machinist's straight edge while it's off. If it's warped, new gasket will fail soon.
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Bob (81-244GL B21F, 83-244DL B23F, 94-944 B230FD)