I have a 242 DL and I want to learn to work on it and do my own repairs, I have never worked on cars before though. I have a guide now and I got some basic tools and I'm going to do an oil change today or tomorrow, but I wanted to ask people on this board how difficult of a task I'm undertaking here. Also, do you need to buy a new jack so that you can lift the car and put jack-stands in the place that the normal jack plugs into? Thanks for the tips.

Just noticed that no one else has mentioned it yet ... DO NOT get the POS Fram filters. Their anti-drainback valve design is not very good, since it's sealing against (rough) cardboard. The net result is that since some of the oil will have drained back to the pan, you have less oil reaching the engine at startup.

The favorite here are the Mann filters (available at pretty much all the online places that advertise here). They're the OEM for original Volvo filters, but for a lot less.

Lacking that, use Puralators. My personal preference is in the Ford/Motorcraft versions. A good anti-drainback, synthetic media, and can be had for under $3. If there's extra clearance, the long FL-1A will fit. Otherwise, the FL-300S.

Stick with 10w-30 or 15w40 oils ... 20w-50 is too heavy, and the weight spread of 10w-40 means more modifiers, less oil.

Good luck and stick around ... there's a lot to learn from the board here!

-- Kane
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Blossom II - '91 745Ti/M46 ... Bubbles - '74 144GL/BW35 ... Buttercup - '86 245GL/AW70 ... The Wayback Machine - '64 P220/M40

Jason... glad to hear the news and welcome! On changing the oil.. it's great to have a very large crecent, or socket w/ a breaker bar for good leverage to get it off. Take B.C's advice to not overtighten the oil pan plug! It can be a chore getting off if it's overly tightened, which means (I) need a new one including a copper washer. Enjoy the first oil change on the Vo!
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Michael 'Street'... one AZ '85 244DL 189K miles

Here's even more stuff to get.

Clean-up things: A box of vinyl gloves (100 for $8 Ace Hardware) and a can of GoJo cleaner. Rolls of low cost paper towels. Save old newspapers. Use under the car when doing oil/filter change, over the fender and over the strut tower when changing the oil filter. Many uses. Oh, get a strap-type oil filter wrench.

Get the Volvo Service Manual Wiring Diagrams for your exact model. Call their publisher Ken Cook at 1-800-25-VOLVO and ask what else they have. Volvo manuals are pricey, but the WDManual has info not found in Haynes or Bentley.

I would recommend the Haynes book. There are two editions extant. The earlier one covers 240s 1974 thru 1986, and is heavy on the pre-1983 models, lotsa pictures. It is caller "Owner's Workshop Manua" and is written in British. (Wing, bonnet, half-shaft, etc.)

The later edition covers 1976 thru 1993, and is titled "Automotive Repair Manual". It is still better on the pre-1983 years. Check eBay for these, you might find the early edition in good shape and low cost. Some parts are a fun read.

First oil/filter change is a good start. TIPS: Do it with the engine warm but not hot. Open the oil filler cap then open the drain. While it's draining, do the oil filter.

Put a hand under the oil filter and check the clearance between the filter and the RH motor mount. Tight fit? Motor mount replacement job needed soon.

Before unscrewing the filter, lay a couple of paper towels over the motor mount. There will be oil leaking out, this protects the mount. Have that old newspaper down under to catch the drip - stains concrete. Use the oil filter wrench just a little, then use your hand - no vinyl glove here.

Keep the oil filter wrench from touching the wiring on the back of the nearby alternator. If you hit the heavy connector stud, the ensuing BZZAAAPP will be (1) a dead short , (2) a reminder about being careful, (3) not really hurt anything, (4) be a good test of your reflexes.

Last: Do NOT over tighten the drain plug. Use a new copper gasket every other time. While you wait for all the oil to drain out, read your Haynes on how to change the timing belt.

There is much more, as you can guess, just ask.

Enjoy the car, enjoy the "Beat the Dealer" rush, enjoy the BBRD.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)

Be sure your tool kit includes whatever you're comfortable with (fine sandpaper, nail files, small-caliber bore brushes, Q-tips and brass cleaner, etc) for cleaning electrical contacts, some sort of fluid electrical contact cleaner, and a protectant for the clean contacts. Taking a slow afternoon to follow one circuit after another under the hood, cleaning, taping, and diagraming as you go, is both useful learning and good preventive maintenance.

When budget permits, in addition to the items others have listed, you might want to invest $10-20 in a multimeter, and peruse this board and elsewhere about all the things it can tell you re continuity, excessive resistance, mysterious current drains, etc.

You have a potentially great car--enjoy!
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We have met the enemy and they is us. Pogo

Start slowly, work carefully, don't rush, work safely. Do these things and you'll be fine. Buy a 3-ton floor jack, about $100, and 6-ton jack stands. You can get by with lighter equipment, but the bigger stands have broader bases and are really stable. The 3-ton floor jack is really nice to have. I have metal ramps, but I just added a set of Rhino ramps last weekend. ($20 on sale at Schucks.) The Rhino's are less steep and much easier to climb. I think they raise the car about six or seven inches which is enough for an oil change. Get some scrap 4 by 8 or 4 by 10 or 6 by 10 timbers about 18-24 inches long to use as back-up support, or to put directly under the tires when you get your jack. The Rhino ramps don't look very strong to me, but the company says each one will support 2000 pounds, I think. Always use back-up support and chock the wheels on the ground. Before crawling under the car, push on the car to make sure it's really solid. You want to be able to relax and feel safe under the car and concentrate on the job you're doing. (Not to mention that a Volvo falling on you will ruin your whole day.) Great cars. We love working on ours and my son and daughter and I have learned a bunch and have had good times.
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Thanks to everyone for the help, Doug C. 81 242 Brick Off Blocks, stock, M46; 86 240, 133k

Supported weight is 12000 lbs. - 6 tons. Way more than enough for any Volvo car ...

The strength is in its structural design. FWIW, I trust these a whole lot more than the bent-steel ramps, which offer no direct support under a parked tire.

-- Kane
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Blossom II - '91 745Ti/M46 ... Bubbles - '74 144GL/BW35 ... Buttercup - '86 245GL/AW70 ... The Wayback Machine - '64 P220/M40

Mine must be a lighter version. They are made by Blitz and each one is rated at 2000 pounds according to the label. They work great. I think I'm going to like them better than the steel ones because they are a lot easier to drive up on.
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Thanks to everyone for the help, Doug C. 81 242 Brick Off Blocks, stock, M46; 86 240, 133k

One of your first tool purchases should be the Bentley manual. It costs about 2X the Haynes manual, but it is well worth the difference. Always on ebay -- new and used.

Glad to see that your first question is regarding safety. Get a decent floor jack and jackstands. Sears usually has one or another on sale. I usually jack from the jacking points and place jackstands under reiforced areas front or back. In the front I use the housing for the front bushing. My jack stand saddle fits quite well. The rear you can use the axel housing or part of the reinforced frame right in front of the jack point. After I get the car where I want it and before I remve the tires I give it a good nudge to make sure that all is stable. If I am working under the car, I keep the jack in place on the area I am working if possible, "belt and suspenders". I never put any body parts under the car if not required. e.g. do not sit with legs extended under the car while changing the brakes.

You have found the right place for someone just starting out. This board is tremendous and the many experts here will help you save much $$. You can get answers for the simplest to most advanced questions.

Good luck
Dan

You could buy a good floor jack, the kind with wheels and a long handle. This type of jack can be rolled under the car to lift at the center of the front cross member. Then you can place your jackstands at the jacking points. Don't buy a cheap floor jack. You'll find lots of times to use it. I think I paid about $90 for mine.

All that being said, may I suggest you start with a set of ramps? Something like Rhino ramps are not expensive, are safe if you drive on them straight, and you can do many repair and maintenance jobs with them. You could buy a floor jack at some future time.

Welcome to the world of Volvos. The Volvo is a good car to learn on. The engine is much more accessible than front wheel drive cars, it's durable, and you can get much help from this board. Volvos have their problem areas but, if you know them, you can take action to prevent problems. My first Volvo was an '80 and we had some no-start situations until I learned about the fuse corrosion and relay problems. If I had had the advice of this board, I'd have gotten that car in good running condition far sooner. I find that parts are very reasonable at the on-line parts places.

I personally don't favor "jack stands" per say. I much prefer using timbers under the tires, because I have never seen a car fall off a timber, or a timer cruch the rusty body. That said, you are correct that ANY TIME a vehicle is lifted, it MUST be supported by some rigid means, and if you need to remove the tire, a timber is not of much value since it will likely be far too short (although you could stack two togather and do one wheel at a time).

For tools, you will need a set of standard and phillips screwdrivers, a "vice-grip" type pliers, a set ofr metric wrenches (6mm-22mm), and a socket set that should include 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" drive metric sockets ranging from 5mm-23mm. In addition, you will need a filter wrench, and some sort of drain pan. I use an old 5qt ice cream pail because I'm cheap, but it gets very soft with hot oil in it, and it's easy to spill.

You should be able to get a VERY complete set of Craftsman tools including everything you need for about $200-$250.
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JohnG 1989 245 MT @216,500