I'm trying to remove the front rotor as the bearing has gone out. How do I get this thing off?

I just replaced all four rotors on a 1983 240 whose brakes had not been worked on for some time. After removing the calipers and the bolt attaching the rotor to the hub as described by the others, I sprayed PB Blaster through the bolt hole and other holes on the hub portion of the rotors. The objective was to get as much penetrant between the rotor and hub. I repeated the PB Blaster treatment over the course of several days. By the time for work on the brakes came around, i.e. the nest weekend, I spun each rotor and smacked it from behind with a heavy rubber mallet while it was spinning. All four rotors came off after several rounds of smacking. I've used this method successfully several times now on different cars. I learned this method from older Brickboard posts, so thought I would pass it on.

After removing the wheel, rotor retaining bolt (10mm) and caliper (19mm bolts), the rotor is not held on by anything except rust.
If you find it's stubborn, I hit them with a hammer. IF you're not replacing the rotor, use a wood block to prevent damaging it. Still can take a pretty good whack to knock the rotor loose if it's real rusty.
After that's off, the axle nut is under the grease cap. Pry that out with a scrwedriver or the claw of a carpenter's hammer. Wipe the grease off the nut and you'll see the nut and locking pieces. Keep your bearing grease clean- don't let any rust from the brakes get into the bearings.
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Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: '87 244DL/M47- 221K, 88 744GLE- 202K, 91 244 181K, 88 244GL 145K

With new rotors ready to install, I've had a hell of a time getting the old boys off. Beat the bejeezus out of one with my carpenter's hammer - still stuck. Bernz torch didn't make a difference. Ah... the good ol' New England solution... the maul! One whack, they surrendered.

Basically you have to remove the caliper and the axle nut. That's with the car on jackstands, of course.

It's easier if the wheel is removed, too.

The caliper can be just moved out of the way. Unbolt it and leave it until the rotor is freed up for removal.

The bearing cover is removed by prying around with a flat tip screwdriver bit by bit, round and round. Then the cotter key is removed, and the bearing nut removed.

The the rotor/hub can then be removed. One hand on the rotor, one hand moving the caliper out of the way. Once rotor is off, put the caliper back in place and hold it there with one bolt, loose. OR hang it on the spring using a bent-to-fit coat hanger. Avoid placing tension on the brake lines.

Do you have a Haynes or a Bantley manual? Pictures always help.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)

Both my 81 & 84 front rotors have a 10mm bolt in the face. Some newer ones have a peg to align the wheels, that also has a 10mm bolt at it's base. Take it off and the rotor should just fall right off. If not, It may be rusted. Tap on it with a hammer to loosen it. The bearing hub cover pops right off with a flat blade screwdriver. The hub bolt is right underneath.
Ben