1985 conversion went into this Volvo. Car originally was not shifting into overdrive so checked fluid levels they were low.After a quick test drive I parked it and shut the engine off. Haven't been able to get it started since. Checked the fuses at fuel pump relay changed the relay still no power to fuse number 5. When I wire from 7 to 5 I do get the fuel pump to work but it still won't start. I'm thinking it might be the ignition switch. Pulled number one plug it is dry absoulutely no fuel getting into cylinders. At same time I checked for spark at number one wire I do have spark. 25 amp fuse under hood seems good. If this fuse holder is bad would it cause no power to the fuse box but I would get power to relay? I'm lost.... Radio and dash lights have not been working lately. Radio is an aftermarket. Any ideas would be appreciated! Why no power to fuse block at number 5 only? Where does the power start and end for this so I can trace it?

"1985 conversion went into this Volvo." I do not understand what you mean by this?

I am assuming that it has no bearing on the problems you are experiencing. I will try to help by looking in my Volvo Service Manual for Wiring Diagrams for the 1985 240. Call 1-800-25-VOLVO for a price for that or other Volvo books.

If the fuse holder for the 25-amp fuse is no good, it may still look good. Try to open it up - there is a hinge for opening it. Inside you may find crud and corruption. New holder is $3 or so at your corner Radio Shack. If that connection is open, the fuel system is non-op.

The fuse box power comes from the distribution box, not the 25-amp fuse. That's why if you jump #4 to #6 you can operate both fuel pumps but not the ECU.

The power from the 25-amp fuse goes only to the Main LH System Relay. When that relay closes, that power goes to the main fuel pump through no other fuse, to the in-tank pump through fuse #4, and to the injectors, the ECU, and other components of the FI management system.

I have recent experience with lying fuses. Looked good, weren't. Removed oxide by rotating with a finger tip - fixed the problem until next day. Then same problem. Took out fuse, the metal end cap crumbled off entirely. How did you check the fuses?

There are some checks for the ECU. I have not done any of them. Look in Bentley or the FAQs here on the board.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)

Where is the distribution box?

The conversion was from a 1985 Volvo into a 1980 262. Supposedly everything is set up like a 1985 240.

OK. The conversion makes the layout of what fuse goes to what be way different from my 1985 chart. I do not have a complete 1982 chart.

There are considerable differences unles the 1982 was a late-year build and had the Bosch LH-Jetronic engine management system.

Does your fuse box have 16 fuses? My 1983 Wiring Diagram book is just a supplement to the 1982 for the then-new LH system. It shows 16 fuses, which implies that the 1982 had only 12. What's the case?

In the 1983 chart, fuse #5 powers the in-tank pump. Jumping to fuse #5 will power both pumps, but not power the ECU. Power TO Fuse #5 comes from a Y-R wire from the Fuel Pump relay when it closes. Power to that relay comes from Fuse #12, and the relay grounds through the ECU terminal 17. What ECU do you have installed, the 1982 or the 1985?

There are two LH system relays in the 1983, both are the 1 x 1 x 1 cube shape, and they go bad from cracking solder joints, overheating, and water damage. The 1985 has one double-coil relay. What does your car have?

The distribution box is a thin black box mounted on the same rail (on the inside of the LF fender) as the 25-amp fuse and the headlight dipping relay. Opening it requires the lid - the side facing the engine - to be pulled straight up. One of the additional wires from the battery+ terminal goes to it.

Sorry if this isn't much help.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)