So I am looking at tackling the front control arm bushings (front/rear) and need to know if lmy plan will work. so for all those who have done it, here it is.

I plan on using an air hammer to get the front out and rear out. however I am not sure if it is a good idea or possible. I don't feel like buying the special tools. What have others done? (I live in the rustbelt, but I don't think it is too rusty up there.)

Thanks,
Chuck
'88 244 168K
'87 BMW 325e 166K

I find that if you're taking off the front control arm bolt, you don't need to disturb the exhaust- you can figure out where the control arm is going to wind up, and tighten the bushing nut there. Taking the front bolt out has been essential on some cars, not on others.
Usually the front bushing does not show wear as the rear one does. Simply doing rear bushing is usually sufficient.
The 3 14mm (head) bolts for the bracket are thread cutting bolts. Don't force them or they could strip.
I have always been able to get the bushing out with a chisel or drift, and a good sized hammer. Collapse the bushing from the side. Then place the bracket against something very strong and hit the bushing square ot drive it rthrough the bracket. It should be tight but moveable. Be careful, keep it square. Reverse with the installation- light taps, keep it square. NOte that left and right are different part numbers, though they look the same and will interchange. Supposedly stronger rubber on one side.
Good luck!
--
Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: '87 244DL/M47- 221K, 88 744GLE- 202K, 91 244 181K, 88 244GL 145K

That will work if you use a "bushing cutter" to split the metal on the outside of the bushing, then you should be able to push them out.
--
JohnG 1989 245 MT @216,500

When I did them recently, it was worth the trouble to remove the parts and bring them to a local machine shop. Here's a hint, when you reinstall them, you need to leave the rear nut loose until weight is on the wheel. If you do it that way, you need to remove the exhaust to get a wrench in there (on the right side). Before you remove anything, mark the position of the rear part of the A arm in the bushing with the car on the ground and use that alignment mark when reinstalling.

Skip
'93 850GLT
'83 242TI Flathood

I was wondering about the exhaust being in the way to torque the passenger side bushing. From underneath the car you can't get to it without removing the exhaust. However I was noticing just yesterday that you can probably get to it from above, through the engine compartment. You'll probably need a ratcheting type torque wrench because there's not much room.

When I did mine (driver's side) I also just brought the control arm and new bushings to a machine shop. They pressed the old ones out and put the new ones in for $20.